There are extremely small fixtures on the market. You might not see this as a workable solution for your situation, but here are a few examples for sinks and toilets:

Residential Photos of Electric Mirror projects · More Info

A couple storage options for small bathrooms:

Option -- Widening and moving all the fixtures to one end of the room, and putting the two doors at the other:

Room Length:

• Does it look like the shower, toilet and sink are within 5' of the 8' 5'' length?
• This leaves 3' 5'' for the doors and structure.

Room Width:

• The current 3' 8" width (44'') would just hold a 29'' toilet depth and 15'' pedestal sink depth (total 44'').
• An option is to use one of the small sinks (shown above).
• So 5' of the bathroom would need to expand from the 3' 8'' width (44'') to 68'' width (5' 5'') taking 24'' from Jack, or 12'' from both Jack and Jill.

Buchacho, don't know if this makes the floor print better or worse! [Moving a 5' length into Jack's (24'') or J&J's (12'' each) rooms.]

Okay 'havingfun', give me your best shot !! LOL !!

Maybe the chicken went up the hill, if there was a road to cross.

Option -- moving the shower and sink to one end of the room and the toilet to the other, with the doors separating the two sides.

Premise -- same wall footprint, but relocating doors and plumbing.

Room Length -- 8' 5'' = 101''

• Shower width = 30''
• Small pedestal width = 18''
• Smallest door openings = 24''
• Toilet width = 29''
• Total = 101''

Note: Tight squeeze!! How do we find 6'' ??

Shower & Sink Side:

Toilet Side:

************************************************************

Standard Shower = 36'' long x 30'' wide:

chookchook2:

Option -- use a really small sink:

But, PLEASE, don't hang towels by the toilet !!

Option -- use a really small toilet:

Option -- room is completely water-proof -- the room is the shower:

And, once again, the towels are hung by the toilet!!

Option --

• use a narrow shower;
• move all fixtures to one end of the room;
• locate doors at the far end of the space.

Don't we all feel better . . .

Option -- don't tell Jack & Jill:

"And that," as they say, "is the end of my story."

You deserve a round of applause.

I am using Visio from Microsoft. I drew a 21 in. deep vanity but if you use any of the small sinks shown by kaywestmaas or use a smaller vanity than the one I drew, you won't have to move the walls behind the doors as much. The windows on each side of the bathroom may not be in the way:

http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/S29020390/ (I have no idea if there is any storage in this vanity)

http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/S39894169/ (You won't have access to the storage at the back, but you would have a little of storage in the front)

Wow, that's a marathon, thanks for the suggestions!

The narrow Lillangen sink really caught my attention at the Ikea store a couple months ago when we went through the store and I thought it would be a good fit, but is too wide at the moment. I was thinking yesterday looking through photos of trying for a wet bathroom inspired style, but keeping the shower as dry as possible from the rest of the room since I like a dry floor. So I would be open to installing a wall mounted toilet to save space. I would probably go for a custom shower, tiled to the size available.

The two doors seem to really limit the layout of the room since it is not very long. I am open to installing a pair of pocket doors so they are not in the way of the rooms they swing into. Barn doors could be interesting too.

Underneath the floor is just dirt, the sewer pipes go strait out toward the window. I do not think any cutting of concrete is needed, but the pipes probably need to be lowered inside and possibly going outside to join with another main sewer pipe.

Here's a photo I took before removing the vanity and shower (seen through the framing) to give a better idea of what it looks like... yikes!

ok, so first i wish to express my sympathies to the chicken, cause you know, someone had to bump their head and roll down.

To Keywestmaas, a standing ovation. I can find but one thing to add to this conversation. The barn doors look easy to lock from the outside, but how do you latch from the opposite side? To me at least that could be important. no?

I understand the appeal of a jack and jill bathroom but in this case would it possibly make more sense to close off both doors, widen the room by a foot as you were intending and putting a door at the end of the room and using a traditional bathroom layout of sink, toilet and shower at the far end? Just a thought.

I haven't taken any measurements of the rooms yet, but here's the rough layout of the first floor there is a 2-car garage on the right. The main living area is on the second floor since the property is on a hill and so the main entrance is on the second level accessible from stairs outside. There is a door on the first level as the only entrance besides the garage door. It's a little bit strange of a layout and we are trying to make the 1st level feel less like dungeon. There are 2 baths total, so I figure it would be nice to make this one more comfortable.

understand more why it must be jack and jill. anywhere else have plumbing above? does it need a shower, can we move that? then maybe each has toilet and sink or I guess just the one.

Above this area is the living/dining rooms, so there is no other plumbing immediately above this bathroom. The upstairs kitchen drains through the pipes underneath, but it is far away from this spot.

well so you could cap it off and move it.

If the right wall is a load bearing wall, you
can change the layout to this. The measurements can be changed. The more depth
you have where the toilet is located, the more room you have to walk
between the toilet and the vanity (red area). The dimension of the vanity is also a factor for the width of the walkway.

If you have another window in your project
room, would you consider having your bathroom in the corner?

I put a pony wall beside the toilet to hide the side view from the guest bedroom's door but you would be able to build one only if your window is fairly high.

yeah that is my problem don't see other windows?

suzanne_m, moving the doors is an interesting idea. havingfun is right, there are no other windows in the "project room" which is the 3rd out of 3 bedrooms (master is upstairs). Interestingly those windows are ones that are half the height of a regular window and are a typical height from the ceiling, so I could see them work for a bathroom. Past the window on the left of the "project room" is where the hill slopes up the side of the wall (back yard meets the second level), so adding a window might be difficult or would be very narrow near the ceiling. It is something to consider though. The two rooms in general do not get a lot of light and is something I would like to address in the future, perhaps with some recessed lighting.

so moving the bath to another spot is totally out?

Also, my houzz ad please join us:

[help chookchook2 celebrate our year: https://www.houzz.com.au/discussions/recruiting-yearbook-volunteers-dsvw-vd~3279779[(https://www.houzz.com.au/discussions/recruiting-yearbook-volunteers-dsvw-vd~3279779)

I think so... it would require a lot of changes and re-routing. Keeping the drains in the open spot under the floor would be the easiest option.

Buchacho-I've looked at this over and over again. I think it's being a bit overthought. Based on your picture, your toilet looks to have enough room by the side wall. Moving the toilet is a lot more complicated than moving a shower or sink. Widen the room a foot as you planned and move your vanity over. You may even have room to go to a 24" vanity. You can lengthen your shower to a 48" shower by moving it over a foot as well. Install pocket doors to save floor space in the adjoining rooms. With the walls open to the studs, it's a very easy thing to install new pocket doors. Use the money you save by not drastically moving plumbing and get beautiful tile and fixtures to make the room look as high end as possible.

katinparadise, that is certainly one of the approaches we will consider. One thing that I am wondering though is what suggestions are out there regarding lowering the floor? Even if we do not lower the floor, probably all the drains need to be replaced since some is cast iron or handyman work that may not be up to code to drain the shower. So at the moment I am thinking the drains underneath for the toilet and shower are open to being moved. If I move the wall on the left, there are the water supply lines (galvanized) that would need to move along with it for the shower. We are into the concept of installing a wall-mounted toilet to save space. Since the bathroom is tiny, we can probably use high-end finishes since there will not be a lot of material used. Maybe we can do something like tile and wainscoting for the walls and some recessed lighting from above.

One advantage of suzanne_m's first layouts is the sink/vanity could face a mirror instead of a window. If it faces a window, I am guessing we would need a swing out mirror? There is currently a medicine cabinet that has a mirror that can swing out, but it is inline with the front of the vanity in that position, so it would be difficult to shave, etc.

It's certainly not a bad idea to lower the floor. You're going to be digging up supply lines anyway. The hardest thing to move is a toilet. If you can find a way to leave it where it is and move the other fixtures, you'll be better off. You're not just dealing with drains underneath, you're dealing with venting through the roof as well. A wall mounted toilet could save you some space and they're so much easier to clean around, especially in a tight space. This one is really a conundrum. I'm going to get out some graph paper and draw something up-I love a puzzle!

ok, i am not an expert on the drain part and i think that is what you are really looking for and since none have arrived, maybe they are gently telling you that you need to go get someone pro.

my last idea is maybe you should run it longer along the wall. so leave the toilet as is, build the walls the appropriate amt of inches away. Put one door. put in the sink next, put the next door, then put in the shower. i don't know how to put drawings on line so i hope you can picture it. it basically all in a row.

I shall leave now and not give you any more false hope that this message might be someone to answer all your questions. have fun, good luck and show us when it is done!

Not totally sure how to get it done yet. Where I live it seems pretty difficult to find good quality work at a reasonable cost. I am thinking I will try to find a general contractor to consult on the project and try to do as much as I can since I have mechanical design experience (for machines not for homes). We can also take our time at each step since this is a spare bathroom. The main thing at this point is I am trying to get a sense of direction that will maximize what we have available and makes sense, so I appreciate the alternative layouts contributed here as I would not have come up with these creative ideas on my own. =) I probably will demo the room more soon and post some more pics as I go on.

ok, i know a possible work around. I do think you are going to have a major problem with lowering the floor, why, because there is a reason they did that. so I don't think you want to go removing the concrete til you have talked to some one in that field. ie a plumber. Ok, I have always watched this old house and from that i learned that though i am oversimplifying a bit, the basics of plumbing and electrical is easy. it is just laying a straight line. or as straight as possible. so when i had horrible problems trying to get a few good outlets and a new box that did not involve glass fuses in my 100+ yr old house, and I was told 3000 and the right to tear out all walls and not redo them, and only for 3 outlets, none 200. I said oh no, this will not do. so we hired a semiretired plumber. we paid him a direction and approval fee. at that time $50 per outlet, $500 for the box (considering it took 10 min, that might have been a bit much but it was way under the other guys) he told us what wire to run. we bought everything, ran the wire, no damage to the house, he hooked to the box and the outlet approved and got the city to approve. worked great for us. plus since he was old and local=well known and part of the incrowd, they did not even bother to come look!

I think your most important step is to find a good plumber. I always ask my tradespeople if they can recommend another trade. I prefer to work by word of mouth versus the yellow pages. I also got great recommendations from my realtor when I bought my new house down here. He always seemed to "have a guy" for everything-paint, floors, etc. Good luck with your project!

[where do you live? https://www.houzz.com.au/discussions/2015-yearbook-poll-continents-you-live-on-dsvw-vd~3284734?n=1[(https://www.houzz.com.au/discussions/2015-yearbook-poll-continents-you-live-on-dsvw-vd~3284734?n=1)

aha, guess what i found in the latest houzz news letter, tell me i am not a very good girl with a better than i thought memory! lol

Room of the Day: Making the Most of a Small 1950s Ranch Bathroom · More Info

took me a good hour to refind the thread. frustrating

havingfun, your strategy for the electrical wiring is a good one. Do the hard work and get a pro to instruct/validate the installation. I wish we had 5x10 to work with for this bathroom. But thanks for finding that plan, it might have some elements that could apply to the upstairs bath that needs updating in the future, that is more "regular" sized.

Doing research on "small" bathrooms online is tough since the definition of "small" appears to be regular sized bathrooms that I think most people growing up in older homes would be familiar with. Our bathroom is just slightly over 30 square feet.

ok, thought you were going to add a foot? well, sorry, i thought it might work, i new yours was a going to be a foot thinner, but this seems still best for that.

havingfun, the main thing is the doors sort of make the design a challenge.

I had been busy with other stuff like painting other rooms, but did a little more demoing of the drywall above the shower stall. =)

Oh hey it is ok. I hope all has been going well. write if you need more help, I think I have about exhausted my helpful knowledge on this topic. Although I did locate a really small sink set up if it helps, it is under 18" and less than 24" wide. Gave to some one else, not able to find one. it is from ikea.

LILLÅNGEN Sink, 1 bowl - 23 5/8x10 5/8x5 1/2 " - IKEA · More Info

LILLÅNGEN · More Info

havingfun, I like the sink a lot and will probably use it. I mainly wonder how practical it is to use. I am going to pick one up and rough it in to get a feel for it. I got a little more serious about doing a layout. Right now I am leaning toward this design.

It uses the Ikea sink and a Toto wall mounted toilet. Did I miss anything? It just barely gives enough clearance.

Some cross section views:

lookin' good! Just tell the gold guy to quit staring! Darn my brain, i saw that you mentioned the same sink earlier. I think what we need to bare in mind. Is how heavy is the usage? It is nice to have it work, but if you only have a couple in and out, it is easy to tolerate. Good luck, let us see, and just write anything on this thread and it will come back up. I have been looking still, just not seen new news. bye for now!

It looks good. I would just avoid to install an elongated toilet.

Thanks, suzanne_m! It was inspired by your earlier designs. What is the definition of an elongated toilet? Last night I was looking into the Duravit Stark 3 compact toilet, it would save about 2 inches. I have not looked at many models... I think it would be worth saving those 2 inches especially to give the design more margin in case I need to install a 2x6 wall on the toilet side for the waste pipe.

oh i forgot, was just on the tp fight sight, and it reminded me, tp is often hard, actually mine is kept in a drawer, current on counter top, but i am going to get one of these

15 Inventions That Solve Those Annoying Little Problems - brainjet.com · More Info

My previous comment was more about a toilet with a tank. This is an image that shows the difference between a round toilet and an elongated.

The dimensions of the toilet you just posted should work. It is a compact model.

Realise this is an old thread but obviously a lot of people have jack and Jill bathrooms so looking for some advice.

We have just bought a 4 bedroom house which has a downstairs toilet, a master bedroom with en suite which has double shower, family bathroom and jack and Jill shower room with single shower between bedrooms 2 and 3. Bedrooms 3 and 4 are relatively small and neither have built in wardrobe space. If my son used bedroom 3 he would have single bed, wardrobe drawers, storage unit for board games etc and not much room left.

What I would like to do is pull out the shower sink and toilet from the jack and Jill and turn this into a walk in wardrobe for bedroom 3 which would mean with no bulky wardrobe and drawers it would create more space in the bedroom.

The other thing is that if the kids were using the jack and Jill between their bedroom as it is intended then we would have a family bathroom that is never being used! I feel that the kids sharing the family bathroom and also being able to use the shower in our ensuite if it was ever needed is luxury enough for them, if they never had a jack and Jill en suite then they wouldn't miss it.

My husband is really not keen on doing this and wants to wait until we live in the house for a while to see how much we use the jack and Jill. The reason I want to do it before moving in is that we are having building work done for garage conversion so would rather have building work all done before we move in. Also I don't want to buy furniture for the 3rd bedroom to then decide in a years time that we are going to convert it.

He has concerns over this decreasing the value of the house, but I think this would create a better living space for our son.

As you all have jack and jills could you advise on the pros and cons of keeping it or having kids share family bathroom and use it as walk in wardrobe instead?

thanks for reading

Jenhx, I am not sure I understand the configuration of your bedrooms and bathrooms. Are all the bedrooms including the master bedroom downstairs? Is the family bathroom on the same floor as the bedroom? Is there a tub shower combo in that bathroom? Could you create a post with with your dilemma and post a floor plan? Maybe we can help you with other suggestions?