Well this is a new one for me.....and I've been in this design field for 30+ years. Looking at your elevation it appears you're using overlay doors. Meaning the door is outside of the the frame front......I'm guessing your cabinet maker is seeking an elevation without the doors so he can see the frame fronts and get a better look at the configuration and the size of the cabinet units. While I know of many cabinet craftsmen who could take your sketch and run with it.......one thing I always tell young designers is to draw with a thought in your mind as to how is the craftsman or contractor going to build this either in the shop or in the field. I would suggest that you download Google Sketchup (it's free) and easy to learn how to use it. Then I would suggest that you actually build your cabinets piece by piece just as you would if you were building them in the shop Start with the base, add the frame front the sides, back and supports. Then you can add the drawer fronts and cabinet doors...........if you get really into it you could build the actually drawer units individually....... I do this for every custom design home for clients. Cabinet makers love it, because I'm basically giving them a shop drawing, complete with dimensions and I'm confident that design fits in the intended space down to the width of spacers I need. I also give this package to the framing contractor so he know just how exact I expect his framing for the space to be.

You should be able to get everything that you want ........ Are you going to have a cabinet maker build it for you ? I suggest that you work with them and have them draw it up for you........Most cabinet makers are very good at working with their clients to get them what they want.

Usually when you get side panels you automatically have space on the sides. If you have a full depth cabinet on the top, you automatically have space at the top and in most cases you will have leave at least 1 inch of extra room for the back of the refrigerator, so there is always air circulation since everything is enclosed. In the 70's they use to make a small recessed space behind like Fred said, today you don't have to do that, most Ref have flat backs, recessed wiring, not to mention the supply for ice-maker also comes in a flush mounting kits for the wall... so pretty much everything is recessed and only space you need is for air circulation and 1" is more then enough. In addition, if you make recessed area now and you push ref to far you will never get your doors open so doing all that is a waste of time, in addition most manufacturers starting to make 30" side panels.

I suggest you follow the step-by-step guide for creating storage cabinets under the bathroom sink. Take proper measurements - Measure the available available space in height, width and height. Cut Plywood to size - With a circular saw and framing square, cut all the required pieces out. You can use a sliding compound saw as an alternative. Attach the base and sides - Start assembling the sink cabinets by placing the bottom piece of plywood sheet on a flat surface. Attach the back and top boards - Place the plywood sheet for the top part of the cabinet and attach wood screws to connect it to both the sides. Turn the back faces of the cabinet upwards. Keep the back piece over the structure and fix it into place with wood screws. Attach shelves - Place the cabinet in an upright position to install the shelves. Slide a shelf into the structure so it is flush against the back. Attach door - Keep both hinges of the door on the same side of the plywood sheet. Drill them using wood screws into place. Now keep the door over the cabinet structure, extend the hinges to one of the side panels and fix them to make them secure. Fix a hasp closure on the other side of the door, placing it in the center of the hinges.