One possibility would be to swap the living room and the dining room. Since the current living room is larger than the current dining room you could still keep some comfortable seating (couch and upholstered chairs?) against the front wall for a keeping room/dining concept. Then your new dining areas (kitchen and dining room) and living areas (living and drawing room) would have good flow between them, which would work well both for family and entertaining. You could also add some builtin bookshelves in the drawing room or new living room to create a library area to add another fun element to the living areas. These bookshelves could be against the long walls in the drawing room, around the window with a window seat in the living room (former dining room), or built to create some separation in the open area between the drawing room and living room/stair area. Your plan seems to show some sort of builtin there, but I'm not sure what it is.

Black wrought iron from the top of the glass "fence" to the ceiling of the balcony would be pretty. The contractor will know how far apart to install the WI for safety. I wouldn't have any fancy WI design, just plain. The WI could also be installed horizontally. Extending the glass would be pretty, too! If the area was fully enclosed you could keep the french doors open more often and incorporate this balcony area into your living space year round. Also it would keep out dust and wind and rain & would be easier to keep clean, maybe there could be a vent for fresh air when the weather was nice. Could you talk to someone who has enclosed their balcony for more information? Depending on the sun exposure, you might need screening, too. The furniture & colors should harmonize with your living room. Ask your family what they might use the balcony for. If to sit and enjoy the view and plants, you will want one type of furnishing and if to eat on the balcony you'll need a table and chairs, too. This is a cute balcony arrangement, but I do not know how comfortable the little WI chairs would be: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_t8-Y4w1UKrc/Sa9w-hXyEeI/AAAAAAAAVrc/hb9dAYdw59c/s1600-h/image%5B45%5D.png

Room s yet in construction so furniture are yet to be bought or made.. Room is 14"*3"*17"*10" the bathroom area is 8"*11"*7"*11" .. Bed size should be king size bed and i dont need very big LCD cabinet .. As i want a small stiing arrangement in the room too.

Hi, I am from Assam, Guwahati. Yes it is warm humid place with lot of rains (like kerala). The bookcase is gradually drying. Fortunately last few days were very sunny and airy and my room has two big windows. Few mor details of my bookcase. It is 8 feet wide, 6 feet tall and 11 inch deep. It was attached with wall with 6 wall screw and has four pair of legs.I ask the carpenter to divide the bookcase into 3 part (32 inch each) and two door system for each part. Every part has 6 shelve from top to botom. There is no plywood or wood in back. I made it that way because the bookcase is attached in my room's inner wall I understand that the bookcase may have very little gap in between wall and wooden planks and i am ready for it. But I have no idea that beacuse of faulty mesurement, it became 1 inch gap between wall and sheve in the upper side. In lower side it is very minimum gap. I stop the carpenters to put the glass door. But now I see that they also make fault in making the doors. The doors are heavier that the shelf. The wooden planks are 1 inch thick while the door are 1.1/2 inch thick. I actually visit few hardwere shops here, but most have no ideas what to do and few says to apply wall putty to fill the gap. But my back wall is coloured (old wall, that why) and wall putty will not set on old wall and timber. I cannot remove it now from the wall otherwise the wall may destroyed. I really need a step by step guide now that what to do after the heves are dry, how to fil the gap and how to put the door without further damaging the shelf.