A thick concrete wall can keep your house cool. Steel will make your house hot unless you insulated the walls well. Insulated walls don't work very well in a flood zone. When they get wet, you need to tear them apart. You will need concrete for the foundation most likely unless you are driving steel pylons. There is probably a combination of the two that will suit your needs best. It would be helpful to know what you want to achieve by using steel. There are advantages to both. Steel floors can be cantilevered further. It is easier to make bigger window openings. Floor and roof spans can be lighter and quicker to build with steel, but the roof will get hotter and therefore need good insulation and need to be well ventilated. These are just general assumptions of certain building practices so that you know what to ask people where you live. The practices and resources vary from place to place and building something for a specific purpose can change the benefits of one material or the other. My best guess is that you will probably want to use both.

Hello Mrudul Casement windows provide excellent ventilation. These are usually opened out to the outside and also provides an unobstructed view. These are easy to clean. On the other hand, sliding windows are best suited for wide openings. But these can be difficult to operate due to excess dirt and lack of friction.

Pawan, The function you are describing is of a Awning Window. Yes , you can still have an exhaust. You need to get an opening cut according to size of your exhaust and mount it on the top part. You have described it as being made of cardboard. It doesn't look like a cardboard though. If it is indeed a cardboard then mounting an exhaust on it may not be durable. Use UPVC or Alum composite sheet. Changing the top part to Awning may still be feasible. But you will need some local help. Thanks, Nitin Cornerstone Designs, Bangalore.

1.Remove Door and Trim If you're adjusting an existing door frame in your house, first, you will have to remove the door itself and all of the trim surrounding the frame. The door is simple enough; just pull the hinge pins out of place, tapping them from beneath with a screwdriver and mallet if necessary. For the trim, wedge a flat pry bar underneath the edge on one end of a section, and gently pull the casing away from the wall. Do the same thing for all of the pieces around the door frame and carefully set them aside to reuse later. 2.Square the Opening Off It is difficult to ensure that a door will be level and square if the rough opening is not (the rough opening is the bare bones structure before any work is done to begin a door install). So, before you begin, use a carpenter’s square to check the upper corners. This will save you time and effort later on. Remember, the more accurate your measurements, the more level your door will be. 3.Shim Door Frame Placing a pre-hung door in the rough opening will give you an idea of how it will ultimately fit. This type comes complete with a pre-made frame surrounding it, so all you need to do is carefully slide it into place and shim wherever you need around the frame to level it in the opening. Remember that wooden shims can simply be made of wedges or blocks of wood. Place a level against the door frame in your existing installation to see where you need adjustments. Then, like before, place wooden shims until it sits as it's supposed to. To keep the shims in place, nail them to the hinge. Make sure you trim any excess pieces with a saw so they sit flush with the wall. 4.Get a Level Sill Next, adjust the door sill with a flat bar or wedge until it too is level. Place the wedge or bar under the latching side of the door frame and have your help hold your door so you can check to make sure whether the top of the frame, or lintel, will need more adjustment. 5.Double Check It is important in every project to double check your work. Take the time to measure the gap between the door frame and the original rough opening. Use and nail in more wedges where necessary. If you have the extra set of hands to spare, have someone re-measure if you feel it could be adjusted differently. 6.Secure Door Frame in Opening Place your blocks of wood and/or shims into the open space over the lintel, and begin attaching the door frame to the original rough opening. Again, double check each corner to be square, before completely securing it into place. Note: Do not worry about the finishing touches just yet. You can add framing to the door after applying the paneling or drywall. Also, head and side casings will finish off a new installation nicely, covering all your small shim adjustments. Thanks & Regards, Cathrinfrancis URBELITE Bangalore