The wall is stunning and creative, but sadly, I have to agree with the consensus expressed on all your threads: this wood should have been bone dry, carefully checked over piece by piece for holes, insects, existing fungus etc., and probably treated and certainly well sealed before before being installed. At this point, I would cut my losses and take it down. Once the pieces are all down, it's possible that if you thoroughly scrub off all fungus with a bleach solution, then let them dry bone dry (preferably in a wood kiln or perhaps a DIY drying shed), then treat and coat, these pieces could be reinstalled. Even that depends on the conditions they'll see - if this wall is exposed to lots of steam or grease you'll be having new issues before long. Also, is the wall itself dry and solid? Any chance water is leaking or oozing from somewhere and adding to the issue? What species of wood is this? Some species are naturally more fungus resistant and appropriate for this than others. Long story short, I'd recommend finding a different way to cover the wall - with ceramic, galvanized metal, or with a really scrub-resistant paint.

The wood has to reach what's called Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC), which is different for various areas of the country/world. I don't know about end grain slabs, which is what you have, but the rule of thumb for lumber air drying (vs. kiln drying) is 1 year for each inch of thickness. Moisture leaves the end grain faster than the side and/or edge of the boards, so in your case the drying time will probably be shorter. If it is not dried in a controlled environment your slabs are going to split radially, due to drying too fast.

Hi Emran, What a great size room you have. You need to create two sitting areas within the space, and pull them into the room (get them off the wall), also I can see from the fantastic chandelier that you have, that the dining table must stay where it is. I would recommend you go with 3 large area rugs, at least 10x12 looking at the size of your room. I would use traditional rugs with different patterns, yet similar colours so that they all work together. Visit alexanian.com for many rug ideas. They ship throughout Canada and US. Here are some of my suggestions, which I feel will pull together the mustard, red, brown and grey colours. Good luck and I love your space. Wendy

Hi, I am from Assam, Guwahati. Yes it is warm humid place with lot of rains (like kerala). The bookcase is gradually drying. Fortunately last few days were very sunny and airy and my room has two big windows. Few mor details of my bookcase. It is 8 feet wide, 6 feet tall and 11 inch deep. It was attached with wall with 6 wall screw and has four pair of legs.I ask the carpenter to divide the bookcase into 3 part (32 inch each) and two door system for each part. Every part has 6 shelve from top to botom. There is no plywood or wood in back. I made it that way because the bookcase is attached in my room's inner wall I understand that the bookcase may have very little gap in between wall and wooden planks and i am ready for it. But I have no idea that beacuse of faulty mesurement, it became 1 inch gap between wall and sheve in the upper side. In lower side it is very minimum gap. I stop the carpenters to put the glass door. But now I see that they also make fault in making the doors. The doors are heavier that the shelf. The wooden planks are 1 inch thick while the door are 1.1/2 inch thick. I actually visit few hardwere shops here, but most have no ideas what to do and few says to apply wall putty to fill the gap. But my back wall is coloured (old wall, that why) and wall putty will not set on old wall and timber. I cannot remove it now from the wall otherwise the wall may destroyed. I really need a step by step guide now that what to do after the heves are dry, how to fil the gap and how to put the door without further damaging the shelf.