Hi, I am from Assam, Guwahati. Yes it is warm humid place with lot of rains (like kerala). The bookcase is gradually drying. Fortunately last few days were very sunny and airy and my room has two big windows. Few mor details of my bookcase. It is 8 feet wide, 6 feet tall and 11 inch deep. It was attached with wall with 6 wall screw and has four pair of legs.I ask the carpenter to divide the bookcase into 3 part (32 inch each) and two door system for each part. Every part has 6 shelve from top to botom. There is no plywood or wood in back. I made it that way because the bookcase is attached in my room's inner wall I understand that the bookcase may have very little gap in between wall and wooden planks and i am ready for it. But I have no idea that beacuse of faulty mesurement, it became 1 inch gap between wall and sheve in the upper side. In lower side it is very minimum gap. I stop the carpenters to put the glass door. But now I see that they also make fault in making the doors. The doors are heavier that the shelf. The wooden planks are 1 inch thick while the door are 1.1/2 inch thick. I actually visit few hardwere shops here, but most have no ideas what to do and few says to apply wall putty to fill the gap. But my back wall is coloured (old wall, that why) and wall putty will not set on old wall and timber. I cannot remove it now from the wall otherwise the wall may destroyed. I really need a step by step guide now that what to do after the heves are dry, how to fil the gap and how to put the door without further damaging the shelf.

Here is a solution to this of u can’t find acrylic or laminate of the same colour the u can get it pained from Asian paints they have a huge variety of painting solutions with whatever shade u want. So what u can do is get the core material of plywood and put mdf on it to get a smoother and even surface and then ask Asian paints to get it painted for u I think it will we cheaper as well as u can get ur desired shade

Veneer with White PU is a great Option. Alternatively you can go with Duco which is slightly cheaper than PU. Laminates always have a sharp edge unless done with the right expertise. Fabrics, if going with white, should be scotch-guarded. Mostly, white PU will work on table tops too, but if you want to use a sturdy option, go for white lacquered glass or White marble.

I live in a converted Victorian school. The impact noise from the flat floor above is terrible. It's actually a relatively new floor (upstairs) but the owner of it is a nightmare and the company who fitted it are complete crooks. The result is a constant creaking/cracking (up to 70db!!) every time someone just walks in the flat upstairs. He is refusing to do any repairs whatsoever - despite having been to court over the issue. He rammed boards between the joists and used cheapest chipboard for floor. Result = creaking, popping, cracking. The noise is very much coming from the existing structure of the floor upstairs, via flanking. Needless to say the freehold are absolutely useless also. I've attached a floorplan of my flat - in the non-bedroom part there are high ceilings and I think I can easily manage to install a false ceiling there (I have at least 10cm to play with there). However, where the bedrooms are the ceilings are very low and I only really have 5cm to play with. On top of that there are 2 RSJ's running across the bedroom areas - that are boxed in and will therefore cause a break in any materials. It's a nightmare! I am desperate to find something that will help in the bedroom area. However, I am unsure of what to go for having read around? ....atm the ceiling is made up of 2xlayers of plasterboard screwed into the joists directly. Can anyone recommend anything on top of this? That would be effective for such loud creaking/cracking. I am only interested in reducing impact noise from above (as I know the airborne will naturally be reduced if I can sort this). Does green glue actually work if I put 2 more layers of plasterboard?? Does acoustic plasterboard actually work? What about MLV on a ceiling? Or should I be looking at soundproofing wallpaper foam and then a layer of plaster? What's the slimmest best solution? Perhaps resilient bars are an option straight onto the ceiling as is - and then one more layer of something? Do you have any experience of this? Grateful for any thoughts - or for anyone's experience where a particular material hasn't worked. Many thanks, A