I'm a Certified installer for Trex decking. Trex Transcend is encapsulated board, with a finish that resists staining, scratches, mold and has a high definition wood grain surface. I don't know what you did to it or whoever worked on your house did something to it, but Transcend decking does not need staining or painting and the protective shell protects decking against fading. Trex Transcend and a few other Trex decking products like Trex Enhance, and Trex Select, they cannot be painted or stained. The only thing can be painted is Trex Transcend White Railings and you should only use light color paint. If you use dark colors, it will absorb heat and it will damage the surface and you can kiss your railings good bye. Also high quality fast drying primer should be used and you have to use Oil or Water based exterior paint and most importantly surface prep is the the key. When it comes to painting specialty surfaces like Trex Railings, hire a Pro to do the work. With that said, if you installed Trex yourself, you have to go to the store and have a Trex representative come out and check your deck. They will determine if loss of color fading was due because of negligence or not. If its a material defect, they will cover the material cost. If you had a Certified contractor do the work, they will cover material and labor. Call your contractor and he will get a Trex Rep to come out within a few days. Good luck

Hello Sarina, Love the chair style and the natural look. If you decide to buy them as shown here and you still want to stain them, be sure to find out what the wood is and what the existing finish is on them. Then consult your local paint store to advise you on the correct product to use and how to use it. Good Luck!

The wood has to reach what's called Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC), which is different for various areas of the country/world. I don't know about end grain slabs, which is what you have, but the rule of thumb for lumber air drying (vs. kiln drying) is 1 year for each inch of thickness. Moisture leaves the end grain faster than the side and/or edge of the boards, so in your case the drying time will probably be shorter. If it is not dried in a controlled environment your slabs are going to split radially, due to drying too fast.

Hi, I am from Assam, Guwahati. Yes it is warm humid place with lot of rains (like kerala). The bookcase is gradually drying. Fortunately last few days were very sunny and airy and my room has two big windows. Few mor details of my bookcase. It is 8 feet wide, 6 feet tall and 11 inch deep. It was attached with wall with 6 wall screw and has four pair of legs.I ask the carpenter to divide the bookcase into 3 part (32 inch each) and two door system for each part. Every part has 6 shelve from top to botom. There is no plywood or wood in back. I made it that way because the bookcase is attached in my room's inner wall I understand that the bookcase may have very little gap in between wall and wooden planks and i am ready for it. But I have no idea that beacuse of faulty mesurement, it became 1 inch gap between wall and sheve in the upper side. In lower side it is very minimum gap. I stop the carpenters to put the glass door. But now I see that they also make fault in making the doors. The doors are heavier that the shelf. The wooden planks are 1 inch thick while the door are 1.1/2 inch thick. I actually visit few hardwere shops here, but most have no ideas what to do and few says to apply wall putty to fill the gap. But my back wall is coloured (old wall, that why) and wall putty will not set on old wall and timber. I cannot remove it now from the wall otherwise the wall may destroyed. I really need a step by step guide now that what to do after the heves are dry, how to fil the gap and how to put the door without further damaging the shelf.