Well this is a new one for me.....and I've been in this design field for 30+ years. Looking at your elevation it appears you're using overlay doors. Meaning the door is outside of the the frame front......I'm guessing your cabinet maker is seeking an elevation without the doors so he can see the frame fronts and get a better look at the configuration and the size of the cabinet units. While I know of many cabinet craftsmen who could take your sketch and run with it.......one thing I always tell young designers is to draw with a thought in your mind as to how is the craftsman or contractor going to build this either in the shop or in the field. I would suggest that you download Google Sketchup (it's free) and easy to learn how to use it. Then I would suggest that you actually build your cabinets piece by piece just as you would if you were building them in the shop Start with the base, add the frame front the sides, back and supports. Then you can add the drawer fronts and cabinet doors...........if you get really into it you could build the actually drawer units individually....... I do this for every custom design home for clients. Cabinet makers love it, because I'm basically giving them a shop drawing, complete with dimensions and I'm confident that design fits in the intended space down to the width of spacers I need. I also give this package to the framing contractor so he know just how exact I expect his framing for the space to be.

Jolie, there is nothing mystic about doing drywall work.......I know a number of home owners that have taken it upon themselves and have produced quality results. The biggest difference is speed. While a professional crew can produce excellent results quickly, you can learn how to do it yourself and get the close to the same results.......you won't do it as fast and you surely won't do it to perfection. Speed and perfection only comes with many years of experience and learning what works and what doesn't work. The question is how much time and energy are you willing to invest in your project and is your time and energy more valuable than hiring it out?

As hatetoshop mentioned , moving the bed to the gap between two window is would be right choice. as in current placement you have windows above your head which does not help for a view and looks odd. you could place double curtain rod or use existing curtain rods and add additional sheer /thin curtains for additional privacy during day as well as light. In future you can add two bedside tables as well and some bedside lamps. In India we are still not used to lower lighting (floor lamps, table lamps with warm day light bulbs) but trust me,it will add new dimension to your bedroom. Also some wall art. example a well framed big size ( 2ft * 3ft) art poster above bed (cheap way to add life (I wont use word "Class" (find it too much)) . Also in future you can think about having a pair of bed sheet (to sleep on ) and bed cover/spread (a good quality cotton one) to cover the mattress during day. And a dhurrie runner would be a good addition as well. All above wont cost too much and maybe little bit investment in quality material can be good as well as u don't have to change these often and can be a long term solution.

1.Remove Door and Trim If you're adjusting an existing door frame in your house, first, you will have to remove the door itself and all of the trim surrounding the frame. The door is simple enough; just pull the hinge pins out of place, tapping them from beneath with a screwdriver and mallet if necessary. For the trim, wedge a flat pry bar underneath the edge on one end of a section, and gently pull the casing away from the wall. Do the same thing for all of the pieces around the door frame and carefully set them aside to reuse later. 2.Square the Opening Off It is difficult to ensure that a door will be level and square if the rough opening is not (the rough opening is the bare bones structure before any work is done to begin a door install). So, before you begin, use a carpenter’s square to check the upper corners. This will save you time and effort later on. Remember, the more accurate your measurements, the more level your door will be. 3.Shim Door Frame Placing a pre-hung door in the rough opening will give you an idea of how it will ultimately fit. This type comes complete with a pre-made frame surrounding it, so all you need to do is carefully slide it into place and shim wherever you need around the frame to level it in the opening. Remember that wooden shims can simply be made of wedges or blocks of wood. Place a level against the door frame in your existing installation to see where you need adjustments. Then, like before, place wooden shims until it sits as it's supposed to. To keep the shims in place, nail them to the hinge. Make sure you trim any excess pieces with a saw so they sit flush with the wall. 4.Get a Level Sill Next, adjust the door sill with a flat bar or wedge until it too is level. Place the wedge or bar under the latching side of the door frame and have your help hold your door so you can check to make sure whether the top of the frame, or lintel, will need more adjustment. 5.Double Check It is important in every project to double check your work. Take the time to measure the gap between the door frame and the original rough opening. Use and nail in more wedges where necessary. If you have the extra set of hands to spare, have someone re-measure if you feel it could be adjusted differently. 6.Secure Door Frame in Opening Place your blocks of wood and/or shims into the open space over the lintel, and begin attaching the door frame to the original rough opening. Again, double check each corner to be square, before completely securing it into place. Note: Do not worry about the finishing touches just yet. You can add framing to the door after applying the paneling or drywall. Also, head and side casings will finish off a new installation nicely, covering all your small shim adjustments. Thanks & Regards, Cathrinfrancis URBELITE Bangalore