Kitchen

Reply to: I had the part near the ceiling formed into an arch, similar to the photo only my rooms are much smaller. The part of my wall that was removed turned out not to be load bearing, though it showed as such in the plans. But if it had been, the structural engineer I consulted advised me to leave a column at the end of the half wall.

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Reply to: You need to know before you start banging away: Is this a supporting wall? If it is, how will I support the upstairs and/or roof? Are there any electrical lines in this wall? If so, can they be removed or just moved? Are there any water lines in this wall? If so, how am I going to move them? Are there any drains/vents in this wall (downstairs laundry/bath)? If so, how am I going to move them? Are there AC vents in this wall? If so, can I move them somewhere else?

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Reply to: Painting kitchen cabinets is a lot of freaking work and disruptive to the household. When it comes to product, I have a short list: BenM Advance, SW ProClassic, Cabinet Coat, PPG Break-Through. Each has pro's and con's. Just depends on time frame, preferred finish, and color.

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Reply to: what carlos said. i've used milk paint on antique oak. raw oak. it's best for raw wood as if actually gets absorbed. Don't know that I'd use it for all the kitchen cabinets. are you thinking of Chalk Paint? That can be done a lot easier. use a sealer. General Finishes Milk Paint is the acrylic, also good for cabinets and also needs a sealer.

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