Hi Ni, I just thought of something....did you say you planned to do the stencil motifs on the window wall? If so, I am thinking they will be mostly hidden by the curtains. I wonder if it might be better to stencil the long wall that is on the right side of the room when looking toward the window. I could see this being a pretty backdrop to the prayer box (I think that’s what you called it?) and your wood cuttings. Then maybe the opposite wall (the one with the kitchen doorway) could hold a large piece of art?

I am so happy to see you here! I will have to go back and see if i can retrieve my posts... thought I would make them into a little book for my daughter, with photos. Quick run-down on the bathroom (not travels, no time) - The kitchen has a rather elegant sliding door with beveled glass panels. Painted white, since this was the original colour. GD's new bathroom has the doors I had picked earlier; i thought of polishing them but decided sprayed automobile paint (on a resin primer) would wear better. Especially since it is such a small bathroom, and she is so splashy. I have this finish in my kitchen and it has lasted 15 years now. A tad chipped here and there, but only needs a wipe down once a week. Same finish for the balcony doors, also split like the bathroom. We have a new wardrobe, a study table with built-in shelves, and a small chest of drawers for her odds and ends. I want to re-tile the tiny balcony, more as a little statement. Currently we are looking at Portuguese tiles, though I did think a mosaic with a funky cat might be nice. Let me see the costing. The room will be painted a neutral adobe, with bright white woodwork and an off-white ceiling. This means she can go wild with cushions and covers. Other changes in the flat; We have changed the glass in the master bedroom and living room from small cramped panes to a single pane for each section with a 1" bevel all round. Doubles the cost of the glass, but looks so elegant! The air-conditioning is being re-located. The compressors were all mounted in the bedroom and living room balconies, which looked terrible and meant the balconies (very narrow, only 30" deep) couldn't be used for anything. Not even plants. So they are being moved so that the compressors can be mounted at the rear of the building. two down, one to go. Now we can put in some nice plants, fishtail palms etc. The kitchen counter on one side came out intact and will be reused elsewhere. I am planning overhead storage, cupboards, and a draining cupboard for plates and glasses. Right now there is no dish washer, though a place is earmarked, but for now I will put in a cupboard with steel racks for cups, glasses and plates, all hidden behind pressed glass doors. This is all in the planning stage.... Pictures in a little while, they are mostly on my ipad and don't transfer well to the mac. They come without numbers... so I have to rename the or something. Somebody tell me how to do this!

The wall is stunning and creative, but sadly, I have to agree with the consensus expressed on all your threads: this wood should have been bone dry, carefully checked over piece by piece for holes, insects, existing fungus etc., and probably treated and certainly well sealed before before being installed. At this point, I would cut my losses and take it down. Once the pieces are all down, it's possible that if you thoroughly scrub off all fungus with a bleach solution, then let them dry bone dry (preferably in a wood kiln or perhaps a DIY drying shed), then treat and coat, these pieces could be reinstalled. Even that depends on the conditions they'll see - if this wall is exposed to lots of steam or grease you'll be having new issues before long. Also, is the wall itself dry and solid? Any chance water is leaking or oozing from somewhere and adding to the issue? What species of wood is this? Some species are naturally more fungus resistant and appropriate for this than others. Long story short, I'd recommend finding a different way to cover the wall - with ceramic, galvanized metal, or with a really scrub-resistant paint.

The wood has to reach what's called Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC), which is different for various areas of the country/world. I don't know about end grain slabs, which is what you have, but the rule of thumb for lumber air drying (vs. kiln drying) is 1 year for each inch of thickness. Moisture leaves the end grain faster than the side and/or edge of the boards, so in your case the drying time will probably be shorter. If it is not dried in a controlled environment your slabs are going to split radially, due to drying too fast.