Well this is a new one for me.....and I've been in this design field for 30+ years. Looking at your elevation it appears you're using overlay doors. Meaning the door is outside of the the frame front......I'm guessing your cabinet maker is seeking an elevation without the doors so he can see the frame fronts and get a better look at the configuration and the size of the cabinet units. While I know of many cabinet craftsmen who could take your sketch and run with it.......one thing I always tell young designers is to draw with a thought in your mind as to how is the craftsman or contractor going to build this either in the shop or in the field. I would suggest that you download Google Sketchup (it's free) and easy to learn how to use it. Then I would suggest that you actually build your cabinets piece by piece just as you would if you were building them in the shop Start with the base, add the frame front the sides, back and supports. Then you can add the drawer fronts and cabinet doors...........if you get really into it you could build the actually drawer units individually....... I do this for every custom design home for clients. Cabinet makers love it, because I'm basically giving them a shop drawing, complete with dimensions and I'm confident that design fits in the intended space down to the width of spacers I need. I also give this package to the framing contractor so he know just how exact I expect his framing for the space to be.

You could also bring in some texture with bamboo sticks or decorative branches and help balance a bit the height of your room with small scale furniture. Spray paint them if you find the perfect size and shape but they aren't the color that you need. Ikea carries white decorative stalks for a very good price. the ones in the 1st picture hold well with small kids around and you don't need a vase for them. there are washi paper or crinkly paper floor lamps with a soft beautifully diffused glow For a budget friendly version check ikea or target http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80028552/

Here's the explanation of how to know if you have room. Your total inches is 100. Assuming you have cabinet on each side, subtract 25.5 for each side (the depth of your countertops) and now you have 49" left. You need 33-48" on EACH side of the island. If you used a 12" deep cabinet for your island instead of the normal 24" depth, take the 49" and subtract 12 (but you will have some counter overhang) and you have 37" left. Divide 37 by 2 and this gives you only 18.5" of space on each side of your island - not nearly enough space to move around or to open doors/drawers/appliances.

Tsilanko, I would always recommend professional installation where needed. But what I am doing here is suggesting that WHEN you are planning to build or renovate, to consider how your plans will affect you in 20 or 30 years time. Split levels are very hep when you are young. A kitchen 3 steps down at 30 is rarely a problem, but might be a hazard at 60, or, as Marjie1059 suggested, if you break a leg. ... All my parents' homes were terrible for old people. They were forced to move to a bungalow in extreme old sge because the location and design of their home was more suitable for an active young couple with a large family than for an elderly couple with stroke disabilities. I would not want to move again, so my present home has features built in that make ageing in place simpler. Mostly small changes, like grab rails, and lever handles on doors and faucets. A major disability suddenly suffered requires major changes if permanent. I did look at this because it came up in the discussion, but if you look at the heading, Planning for Disability, it means just that. Plan ahead so you don't have to make expensive changes later on. But thank you for your advice, yes, major changes are not in the DIY domain.