I would use whichever Asian piece fits the tv as a tv console. Then purchas or have custom built...two large column bookcases one on each side of the credenza...to reach to the soffit. Install glass shelves in the bookcases. Get rid of the cream sofa...I can't tell what is opposite it, but, it is white. It looks like you have too much large furniture all fighting to have their style be "the winner" and nothing meshes. Use the lower asian cabinet under the window...then a cluster of the traditional style chairs grouped for conversation. 2 and 2 facing each other perpendicular to the window. The small tables could be between the chairs. They could be very similar to the armchair that is in the picture, not matching...but the wood frames all the same color and the upholstery the same. Then repeat the upholstery in decorative pillows on the sofa. Using the armchairs in the traditional area, gives you lots of flexibility as you can easily move them over facing the sofa when you wish to create a larger conversational grouping, or facing the tv when there is something special you want to watch. Get rid of the curio cabinet and the round glass table as they are too much in contrast with the leather sofa. Paint the smaller tables in a bright color to add a pop of color...repeating the color in pillows on the sofa. (I see an orangey colored throw on the sofa...that would be a nice accent color) You could add lights in the bookcase columns for interest. Then, look for an unusual lamp or chandelier to hang in the corner behind the curve of the sofa. I would hang floor to ceiling draperies with the large grommets in the top to repeat the medalian on the asian pieces. Add a wide band of the accent color to the bottom of the draperies. Place 2 unique wall sconces on each side of the wall unit...something that draws the 2 styles together, maybe with hints of the accent color. A large piece of artwork, which includesvthe accent color, to be hung over the sofa. It would be fun to have a frame in an ornate traditional style, but painted to match the asian pieces. Thanks for the opportunity it was fun!

This is wonderful how you opened the stairs - you get a real sense of the architecture and it brings in more light. I applaud what you have accomplished. I'm going to assume that the wall above is patched with quickcrete and the whole thing is painted (try to get the wall beyond under the stair too). If you have / want a flat screen, you might mount a swing arm wall mount for a flat panel television on the vertical wall element remaining on the right - just about 3' - 3 1/2' (around 1 meter) above the floor so that it is eye level when you are sitting. The swing arm support will allow you to tilt the television away from the wall ever so slightly across the nearby corner. This can help to eliminate glare from the nearby window and make it possible for more people in the room to view it / expand your seating possibilities. I reference something like http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/Chief-Thinstall-TS318SU-Medium-Dual-Swing-Arm-Wall-Mount-18in-Extension/2555661.aspx?cm_mmc=ShoppingFeeds-_-GoogleBase-_-Video/Monitors/Cards/Projector-_-2555661_Chief%20Thinstall%20TS318SU%20Medium%20Dual%20Swing%20Arm%20Wall%20Mount%20-%2018%22%22%20Extension%20-%20_CIF-TS318SU You can even mount a television tlhat is wider than the wall behind as it can sit flat on the wall and extend beyond the wall to the left when at rest like another plane in your architectural composition. Since the upper stair is just behind, this should be fairly safe for the electronic. Determine precisely where the television will be at rest before you hang the mount itself. Then, look for a low height chest to sit below the television. Ideally a chest with one open shelf near the top to hold your component receivers. You may want to try to run electrical to the remaining vertical wall on the right (the support for the stair landing) to get power into the wall itself, while everything is open. Depending upon where the nearest source is, with concrete walls, you could mount the power junction box low on the wall under the stair and drill out small diameter cord passages through the wall after placement of your components. Or use the baseboard area to run needed cables and power to the area behind the chest, then conceal it with baseboard trim. The more you can hide the power and connection cords, the sleeker the look, to match your gorgeous architectural stair element. If you have a larger deeper television, put it on a sideboard chest under the upper stair where you have the depth. In the rear area, take care with putting cables together in a cord cover - ikea has a good one that is inexpensive. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20097954/ so it looks "neat" from behind when you come down the stair.

This is a structural evil that you will have to live with. But there are ways to turn it to your advantage. You could add a false ceiling between the beam and the far wall (about 6 " or so above the height of the soffit (bottom height) of the beam. As an extension of the false ceiling, you can also add a matching fake beam on the far wall side. Then recess lights into the false ceiling. In this way, you can turn this portion of the ceiling into a feature. With this feature, you could also turn attention away from the upturned 'pit' portion between the beam and the far wall. A fake beam at the far end will not interfere with circulation space, since you could place an entertainment unit there As an alternative to the false ceiling, you could create shallower beams in wood in that portion, parallel to the existing beam

Tsilanko, I would always recommend professional installation where needed. But what I am doing here is suggesting that WHEN you are planning to build or renovate, to consider how your plans will affect you in 20 or 30 years time. Split levels are very hep when you are young. A kitchen 3 steps down at 30 is rarely a problem, but might be a hazard at 60, or, as Marjie1059 suggested, if you break a leg. ... All my parents' homes were terrible for old people. They were forced to move to a bungalow in extreme old sge because the location and design of their home was more suitable for an active young couple with a large family than for an elderly couple with stroke disabilities. I would not want to move again, so my present home has features built in that make ageing in place simpler. Mostly small changes, like grab rails, and lever handles on doors and faucets. A major disability suddenly suffered requires major changes if permanent. I did look at this because it came up in the discussion, but if you look at the heading, Planning for Disability, it means just that. Plan ahead so you don't have to make expensive changes later on. But thank you for your advice, yes, major changes are not in the DIY domain.