If the door is well painted I doubt if you will have a problem. A good coat of paint on wood work and wall surfaces is important if you have a lot of moisture in the room. If you can do some alterations to the space I would suggest you install an exhaust fan in the ceiling that vents moisture to the exterior, i.e. through the roof or side wall. Companies like Nu-tone and Broan make fans that have a moisture sensor that will kick on the fan while using the shower if you forget to turn it on. And these fans can be much more quiet than the typical bathroom fan. Some hundreds of dollars for the purchase and installation of this would be well worth it. I have seen bathroom ceilings covered with mold because the room has neither a neither a fan or window so you are right to be concerned.

I know someone who has man-made marble in a bathroom for shower surrounds and vanity tops, and beautiful white window casing and window sills of the same material. It looks great.

Ok thanks. After SE extention 1. NE was cut 2. SW was cut 3. water tank above toilet in center of east. 1. NE cut - Just make a shed/pargola of same height as bathroom... put 4 poles beside staircase and put up a tin shed. 2. SW cut... build a store room with 4 poles, tin shed, wall of plywood or/else any material you can afford. Door from east work area. Or door preferably from inside the bedroom. This is the bedroom in SW corner which head of the family or bread earner should occupy. 3. Water tank and toilet is not causing much problem due to height. However; I am not sure if thats exact center of your whole plot. Doesnt seem so. If anyone living there facing litigations, financial troubles or unnecessary authority problems... Just pay 500rs to a known good vastu consultant and amend accordingly. Its not practical to advise seeing pictures only, there are many things to consider. Thanks

1.Remove Door and Trim If you're adjusting an existing door frame in your house, first, you will have to remove the door itself and all of the trim surrounding the frame. The door is simple enough; just pull the hinge pins out of place, tapping them from beneath with a screwdriver and mallet if necessary. For the trim, wedge a flat pry bar underneath the edge on one end of a section, and gently pull the casing away from the wall. Do the same thing for all of the pieces around the door frame and carefully set them aside to reuse later. 2.Square the Opening Off It is difficult to ensure that a door will be level and square if the rough opening is not (the rough opening is the bare bones structure before any work is done to begin a door install). So, before you begin, use a carpenter’s square to check the upper corners. This will save you time and effort later on. Remember, the more accurate your measurements, the more level your door will be. 3.Shim Door Frame Placing a pre-hung door in the rough opening will give you an idea of how it will ultimately fit. This type comes complete with a pre-made frame surrounding it, so all you need to do is carefully slide it into place and shim wherever you need around the frame to level it in the opening. Remember that wooden shims can simply be made of wedges or blocks of wood. Place a level against the door frame in your existing installation to see where you need adjustments. Then, like before, place wooden shims until it sits as it's supposed to. To keep the shims in place, nail them to the hinge. Make sure you trim any excess pieces with a saw so they sit flush with the wall. 4.Get a Level Sill Next, adjust the door sill with a flat bar or wedge until it too is level. Place the wedge or bar under the latching side of the door frame and have your help hold your door so you can check to make sure whether the top of the frame, or lintel, will need more adjustment. 5.Double Check It is important in every project to double check your work. Take the time to measure the gap between the door frame and the original rough opening. Use and nail in more wedges where necessary. If you have the extra set of hands to spare, have someone re-measure if you feel it could be adjusted differently. 6.Secure Door Frame in Opening Place your blocks of wood and/or shims into the open space over the lintel, and begin attaching the door frame to the original rough opening. Again, double check each corner to be square, before completely securing it into place. Note: Do not worry about the finishing touches just yet. You can add framing to the door after applying the paneling or drywall. Also, head and side casings will finish off a new installation nicely, covering all your small shim adjustments. Thanks & Regards, Cathrinfrancis URBELITE Bangalore