Just to clarify, you have presented 3 versions. I believe the consensus is the original version with the wood grain ( linen grain) cabinetry works the best and is most updated. The only thing that is out of place are the cabinets or "shelves" on both sides of the range hood. If this is what you need to find a solution too. I would suggest only experimenting with rendering options for these two cabinets( or shelves). This cabinet ties in all the other hard surfaces. The white is not working. It just adds another element. The black is a little dated.

To add, the window you see at the end of the passage is the light source I am talking. The cabin is in the end, the same room with the window. Its west facing so after noon the light is strong enough to come out till the reception, , form where I clicked the first picture, I am I have bee able to explain well.

@Studio Chippan, Thank you, for your response and the reference pictures. It offered me helpful insights. I agree with you regarding the 3rd-photo. This illustrates that 3 paint colours in my living-room will not work (even if 2 of them are white!). This also means that I can no longer go with 8300/Confetti as my choice of white for walls (as much as I like it, it will dull/dim my rooms if I paint that on my ceilings as well, especially my north-facing rooms). So now, I need to find 1 single-white that can go/complement with my 2 adjacent accent walls in 8307/Quicksilver, and that can be used on my ceilings as well (and the walls and ceilings of all the other rooms). Any suggestions? So far I have sampled the following Asian/royal white(ish) shades (I’ve added my take on them beside it, but it is only my own perception of these shades): 1) Base White (the one without any tint): boring, clinical, too bright a white for walls 2) 8300 /Confetti: not too cold, not too warm, my favorite white among the ones sampled, but too dull for the ceiling 3) L104/Cotton Wool: seems to have a slight-pink-undertone(?) on my walls, too bright a white for walls 4) L109/Icy Peak: boring, slight-green-undertone(?), but might work for my walls+ceilings requirement 5) 8332/Snowflake: this is a very nice grey, but I am looking for a white (for walls+ceilings) 6) 8308/Whispering Smoke: this is a very nice grey, but I am looking for a white (for walls+ceilings) 7) 9483/Clear Sky Night: this is a nice grey, but I am looking for a white (for walls+ceilings) 8) 8299/Ice Age: this is a nice grey, but I am looking for a white (for walls+ceilings) 9) 8292/White Gold: this is too warm a white (strong pink/peach undertones!), ruled-out. Why 8307/Quicksilver, and why 2 accent walls (if I may call it that) instead of 1? This particular vertical-line of the fan-colour-deck is the best match with a wallpaper that will be applied on an exposed beam (~L:15’+15’*H:1.5’*D:4”) running along the ceiling on 2 of my living room walls. Shades along this deck-line are: 8308/Whispering-Smoke (one of the whites you suggested above, but too light a grey for accent), 8307/Quicksilver (seems like the right density for me), 0615/Silver Grey (gets too dark for me from here), 0643/Steel Grey, etc… *Disclaimer: I do not claim to be a minimalist; I am merely trying to be one. However, I did not succeed with my living room design; and now I only hope it doesn’t get out of hand and OTT.

Djhamu, why wouldn't it be fair enough a question ? The reasons of measurement differences could be many: 1 - Approximates: Eg. 10'4" Could be be considered as 11' and 10.5" by two different people. 2 - Work Approach : In a ABC triangle one has an option of going directly from A-C or from A - B and then B - C. Depending upon which route they take their measurements will be different. 3 - Misunderstood/missed requirements: When you say I need painting, some one will consider just painting while another one will include 2 coats of putty one of primer and then paint. Difference! 4 - Taking measurements lightly : Some folks know just by previous experience that a 2 BHK home painting would cost them say X and they give a rough measurements which will differ from the one taken by some one more methodical with measurements. The reasons of price differences is like any other service say a Doctor. Skill, Experience, Demand and competition are some of the economic factor that help them decide market rates. It doesn't mean the costliest one is best or cheapest one is not good. Recommendation: It's good to be involved in the process but too much of intervention by a new cook surely spoils the broth :). When I go to a Doctor I don't ask him how he knows which medicine is best for me or how much I should take :) likewise trust your professional here (unless you have a strong reason of not trusting her) Best way to approach would be to hire a trusted consultant, get your 2D- 3D drawings, measurements, product and material specifications, in black and white . Use this detail sheet to get a quote from different vendors. For example with drawings in your hand you already know that your wall is 9'1 X 15' measurement ask a quote with details like how many quotes of putty/ primer and sanding of which brand are required. It shall cover most of the differences above. 3 tips : : I have personally seen that people who 'know too much' are very easily duped. They fall quickly for the 'ego' trap. : Trust the people who have done good job in past with your friends and family, search around , get involved but not too much. Genuine reviews are there because people have been happy.. : Finally, don't fall for sweet talks :D Some one is 'cheaper' for a reason. Most of the jobs you mentioned is measured either in per/sqft or lump-sum basis. Thanks, Nitin Cornerstone Designs, Bangalore.