Kitchen

Reply to: Strong 1/8" reveal on that sink please.

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Reply to: "But won't that slight 1/8" reveal ledge be a crumb catcher and won't debris get caught in that 1/8" reveal ledge and under the countertop?" No. I've probably installed a thousand sinks this way and have never gotten that callback.

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Reply to: 1/8".

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Reply to: "Can a slight postive reveal as you recommend be as small as 1/16th?" Yes. "What would you say this positive reveal is?" Looks to be about 1/8" to me. Go with a strong 1/8" please. You'll never see the bulge.

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Reply to: "The revealed flange will now have water and debris sitting on the grout line, causing degradation of the caulk. What you see below is a common situation. The flange was used as a top tier and water sits at the grout line. In this case, and others I have seen, mold grows. The exposed flange can collect dirt and grime, requiring regular cleaning. If you zoom in on this photo, you can see the mold in the grout." Dino: Respectfully, what you're showing is fabricator error causing failing caulk. Any sink with any type of reveal that has black/brown crud is leaking. Sinks leak because fabricators use leaking blocking or clips to secure sinks instead of a strap system. Strapped sinks don't have failing caulk lines that get contaminated by leakage because the sink is constantly pushed against the stone bottom which clips and blocking can't do. I've done a slight positive reveal on thousands of undermount sink installations and have never gotten this callback. You could let water and crud sit on that reveal for a month or two and the silicone isn't going to contaminate. It can't happen. How much water and crud can fit on 1/8" anyway? The silicone doing the waterproofing work is between the stone bottom and the sink flange, unexposed. The problem with the flush reveal you advocate for is a possible elongated silicone joint. As the bottom of the top and the sink flange curve, the silicone joint becomes thin to infinity. This thin silicone joint quickly frays, catches water and crud, and turns black and contaminated as I showed in my previous picture. This is not the first time I've seen this. There is no better and tighter joint than a slight positive reveal.

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Reply to: Your cabinet person is wrong. That 36" Elkay is undermounted in a 36" cabinet and looks much better than if it were in a 39" cabinet. Throw away the leaky clips supplied by Elkay and install it with two Sink Straps please. Yes, the tops of the cabinets sides are cut down about an inch, however, the strapped sink makes that irrelevant structurally.

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Reply to: " I also get tired of the guck that builds up where the granite meets the sink. it's not always easy to clean, especially if the sink is square." If you have gunk at an undermount sink, that sink is leaking. Strap your undermount sinks and fabricate with a slight positive reveal and it's impossible to get gunk.

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Reply to: I did a wonderful solid white full Corian backsplash over a blue Corian top. It looked great, then the customer put all her cookie jars and stuff all over the counter and covered the splash. Same thing's gonna happen here.

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Reply to: Your neighbor's tree has nothing to do with the crack. A control joint was never installed, so the driveway made its own. Clean it out and fill it.

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Reply to: "Current front sink countertop is 5.25 inches (too much) but given cabinet construction fabricators think can only reduce to 4.5 inches. (we have 1.625 inch overhang already)" Your fabricators are mistaken. Your front rail can be as small as 2 3/8" as long as your sink is strapped, not clipped or blocked, in place . Here's proof on a retrofit: "Can we cut into cabinet cleat or rail to allow sink to come forward?" No need; simply rabbet the top of the cabinet sink rail 1/8" to accommodate the thickness of the sink flange.

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Reply to: " I need one for air-gap, one for water filter. How far to the left and right would you place these away from the kitchen sink faucet in the center?" I'd go 8" on center from the faucet for easy cleaning. After inspection, abandon the goofy air gap please. A high loop in the dishwasher drain line seems to work perfectly in 45 states. I'd install a disposal switch or a soap dispenser in the hole.

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Reply to: X: It is not too small, in fact I prefer a 1/8" positive reveal over the 1/4".

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Reply to: I'd follow Ruvati's 1/4" positive reveal recommendations, however, please disregard their mounting clip detail. Clips leak and drilling into engineered stone will void the warranty. Use a couple Sink Straps or a Hercules Universal Sink Harness please. Flush reveals create an elongated silicone joint that frays and becomes contaminated, unsanitary, and ugly. The positive reveal exposes the least amount of silicone, looks best, and is easily cleaned. Ruvati specifically does not recommend a negative reveal. https://www.ruvati.com/wp-content/uploads/C_Undermount_Workstation-1.pdf

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Reply to: "Is the best way to install an under mount workstation sink to IKEA cabinets with the HUSH system?" Yes, the HUSH or a couple Sink Straps, depending upon your drain configuration. Tell your contractor I've literally installed thousands of sinks with that "sketchy" method without any callbacks. lol From what I can understand, I'm inclined to go along with your fabricator's recommendations on your second question.

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Reply to: Kim: If the drain is centered, I'd go with the Sink Straps.

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Reply to: j Brule: While silicone does have adhesive properties, it is not the same as some of the structural adhesives like Black Mamba and requires the use of mechanical fasteners. I recommend a strap system like the Hercules Universal Sink Harness or a Sink Strap or two. Both can be retrofitted.

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Reply to: Diana: Steel-on-the-flat is woefully inadequate for what you’re proposing; I don’t like it under any circumstances because I’ve fixed it a thousand times. Square tube custom steel frame from the backs of your cabinet fronts, let into and across the wall, then to the legs and apron. No additional cabinet reinforcements are necessary.

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Reply to: You're worrying too much. Pay attention and you'll be fine.

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Reply to: "I gave the installer the Hercules Universal Sink Harness Kit but he said the plywood pieces he added provide good support for the sink." Unlike a HUSH, the plywood pieces cannot push the sink against the bottom of the stone. Mounted this way, with the steel-on-the-flat divider, the sink will sag and leak. It is impossible to make a divided sink flex with a HUSH without violating the laws of physics. "Is this the correct way to install an undermount sink?" No. "If the sink needs to be replaced one day, how can it be done?" It would be done by popping off the cabinet front and prying off the plywood; a real PIA. Were it strapped with a HUSH, it would be a 20 minute job. Remove the plywood. Place the sink in the cabinet with the HUSH. Install the top, then have your plumber mount the sink with the HUSH please.

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Reply to: Elizabeth L.: You are correct. While the silicone sealant between the sink flange and the stone bottom has adhesive properties, it primary function is that of a gasket. Have your plumber do this please.

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Reply to: This is what happens in two years if you get this wrong:

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Reply to: Jeanette: Get your concerns acknowledged in writing, then trust your crew. That sink can be pulled a little each way to get the reveals perfect.

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Reply to: Jeanette: As long as you have 3/8" or so between the sink top and the stone bottom, your reveal will be fine.

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Reply to: rz: I'd simply glue in matching material with color matched adhesive and finish to match.

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Reply to: Just do the Danby. You have accepted it will etch, may acquire patina of use. and few if any complain of stains.! Taj Mahal is the work horse of quartzites ------ few issues for anyone, whether polished or honed. . You're never going to love quartz, which CAN have scorch issues when installed as a back splash, , so move on: ) Go shopping. Maybe you will love a River White granite, but my bet is on the Danby. Or Taj Mahal, depending slabs which vary quite a lot.

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Reply to: honestly? get the whole thing redone and start fresh. from there if you get a small etch (and you will) then you can use the polishing powder. All they will do is come in w/grinding pads (basically sand paper but for stone) and grind off a super thin layer. to keep it honed, they'll stay in the 400-600 grit range. the higher the grit #, the more polished it will become. So in the future when you get a small scratch or etch, you could prob get a wet/dry sand paper in a 1000 grit, and very lightly go over the spot. the polishing powder will basically work the same way. I've used the 600 wet/dry paper on my honed carrara. practice on a spare piece first. btw, this is the stuff that he put on my marble floor after he re-honed it. this stuff is amazing. completely repels water. (nothing will stop etching, but for staining, this will buy you some time)

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Reply to: "...nothing will stop etching..." This may have been true 5 years ago; it is not now. MoreAntiEtch.

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Reply to: "@Joseph Corlett, LLC - how much should a homeowner expect to spend on having a new sink installed (which includes enlarging the opening in the granite)?" Removing a sink and installing a top mount sink without polishing the cutout would be in the $1,200.00 -$2,900.00 range as would changing an undermount sink without changing the cutout. Sink and plumbing included. Removing an old sink, cutting, profiling, and polishing a new cutout and undermounting a new sink is in the $2,900.00-$5,500.00 range, sink and plumbing included. If you go with a custom made sink, which is often dictated by circumstance, add another couple thousand. If you hire the right professional, this job will be done in a day with virtually no mess. I've done it thousands of times.

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Reply to: Disregard Kohler's installation instructions and use (2) Sink Straps or a Hercules Universal Sink Harness please. As long as the silicone is applied to the top of the flange, not topically afterward, there won't be any problems. The lighter colored composites should probably only be purchased by the fastidious rinsers. I've installed quite a few and gotten no complaints.

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Reply to: RFAP: Many sinks can be top or undermounted:

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Reply to: Please place a straightedge against the warped door and post a picture.

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Reply to: Photos look like oxidized copper so I would try a bit of Bar Keeper's Friend to see if it will remove the blue. If that doesn't remove it, then I'd have to go with Joe's theory. If it turns out to be copper, then I would be thrilled because those bits of blue green are gorgeous & I would want more of them.

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