backyard

Reply to: Fertilizing is closely linked to the need for water. Plants that aren't growing or transpiring need little in the way of regular fertilizing. Still, there is no harm in maintaining an adequate supply of nutrients in the soil at all times. I fertilize right up until plants lose their leaves, and even beyond that for conifers. Once I bring them in to overwinter in an unheated garage, I stop fertilizing until spring and the onset of notable growth. For some plants, I specifically withhold fertilizer until after the spring push is done, but that is an intentional manipulation. The reason I don't fertilize in the winter is, I often water by tossing shovels of snow on the plants, which means the soil isn't getting flushed. If I fertilized, I would want to flush the soil to prevent salts from accumulating - it's just much easier to withhold fertilizers from plants that are dormant/quiescent/torpid. In what chapter in Dr Whitcomb's book did you find reference to fertilizing in the winter? I'd like to review that part. Al

Q

Reply to: The roots of Japanese are very sensitive to disturbance so the least disruption you can provide the better. That speaks to planting something sooner rather than later, when the roots have spread out significantly from the original rootball. It is best to choose some sort of plant that requires minimal attention and no need for frequent division, etc. that may require cultivation in the root area. If you were choosing some sort of flat groundcover, you could plant closer to the trunk than I would recommend for something larger, like a perennial or small shrub. I'd still keep a reasonable distance.

Q