I can't really see the crack you're referring to in the pic of the top of the counter. At casual glance the corner area looks okay, but maybe the pic is just making it look ok. Can you take a closer-up picture or at least circle the area?

But that second pic -- ouch! That is a badly done joins, and the color of the adhesive makes it even more apparent.

Unfortunately, you paid in full, so I'm not sure what your recourse is. I hope others with more knowledge in this area will chime in.

"I've added a cropped photo of the corner that may give a better idea of the finish."

Now I can it see. Yea, it's bad.

Slabs do not match. Poor joint coloring. Broken slad. Screratched badly. Just a poor job all the way around. Up to you but remember this installer may not have the ability to do any better. Have you had the owner out to look at this mess? I would have him out. Before he does anything further make certain he has another team to send and tell you do not want the same guys back in your home.

Thanks so much for all the feedback everyone. In relation to questions and comments; The piece was added as a true waterfall (see photo I have just added). I ordered a number of slabs as I have the same stone in other areas around the house so the quantity should not have been a problem. All the other areas were also honed and have no scratches on the surface. Why did this piece, which was the most important area of the house, end up with scratches? I have been to their factory and it is huge with many machines being used for fabrication. They've been around for 50 years. It would be nice if they were honest with me rather than giving me false excuses. I am organising for the owner to come to the site for an assessment. I want to be able to have an informed discussion with them in relation to all the issues, however it's hard to know what is acceptable and what is not. The contract has 28 terms and conditions all with a number of sub categories. At no point does it state that scratching may occur or is acceptable if the product is honed in the factory. I'm not sure if they can fix these problems but I'm also doubtful that they will replace the whole island install with non damaged stone and a cleaner installed product

^^ Yep. 2 days of rain here after a 1-day break, so a good 3 days of steady rain this week. It is most welcome here.

"4 Quercus trojana acorns I picked up in Turkey."

You got those through customs?

Last night I planted Clematis durandii behind the Peony Sorbet I has put in the day before.

In the previous day in another redo bed I also planted a Clematis Multi Blue that I moved from too much shade. Then added a Peony Catherine Fontaine along with 3 each of Pycnanthemum virginianum, Stachys o. Rosea, Achillea p. The Pearl, Penstemon hirsutus & Linum perenne. So happy to have this done.

A whole bunch of native perennial plugs plus 6 native small-ish shrubs (2 Kalmia latifolia, 2 Ceanothus americanus and 2 Itea virginica). It is all for the front yard. Can't wait for spring even though the drought has been hard on some of the shrubs despite watering.

"My original question clearly states, “any ideas on how to ask the tiler to improve the look of the tiles around the drain?” "

Which is why I responded the way I did. Looks? No one is going to see the sharp-angled cuts but you, it's a non-issue IMO. Sharp edges? Different story -- THAT needs to be remedied.


"As my post stated, I was asking for advice before discussing with the tiler, should they either not have ideas or say there’s nothing that can be done."

And Jan and I told you -- sanding. Tilers know this, it should be an easy fix.

If you want a re-do to get it like the pic you posted, thats a different conversation with the tiler. What is your end goal here? Looks vs safety vs both? Decide what you want out of this situation and go from there.

" the tiler did use Redguard for waterproofing "

What was the substrate the applied the Redguard to? What about the pan?

It is unfortunate, but homeowners need to be knowledgeable in today's world re: renovations. Luckily, I had just started reading Houzz posts about six months prior to my first bathroom renovation. Due to all of the comments asking about waterproofing (on posts that had nothing to do with waterproofing), I realized that it had become a big issue.

I also learned the steps required for a traditional water in - water out custom made shower pan + how many contractors would skip the required pre-slope UNDER the vinyl waterproof liner in addition to the slope made on the liner (the liner would be installed flat on the subfloor). I was able to immediately spot an issue when my contractor failed to install a pre-slope under the vinyl liner. I also took MANY photos along the way to document the construction of the shower.

I would ask how the shower was waterproofed. You could do it in a way that is not accusatory - maybe tell him/her that you are asking for a friend who is going to DIY his/her shower renovation. You could simply say that your friend asked you how your shower was constructed - and that you said that you would ask your contractor because you weren't sure.

If you simply ask about your shower - your contractor may assume that you believe that it was done incorrectly = you may not receive an honest answer. You still may not receive an honest answer, but at least if you pose the question similar to how I have suggested, he/she won't be defensive and there is a chance that he/she will provide the steps that were used.

There are many contractors who believe that the way they are constructing showers is a perfectly acceptable option - even though it isn't. There are "how-to" videos on YouTube that show unacceptable shower construction methods. Obviously, the creators of those videos honestly believed that he/she was providing helpful information for DIYers.

Why do you feel you need an update? Is there something about it you don't like?

FWIW, I think it's lovely as-is.

The only think I'd recommend is some beefing up of the landscaping to bring the plantings more in scale with the house.

I don't like the eagle. It's too small for the space, and highlights the asymetry of your windows. If you love it, but it over the door. I don't like the star, either. I'd pick either the star or the eagle and put one over the door remove the other. Perhaps, there's a place on another side of the house for it, if you love it. Your house numbers are small. I'm sure they are barely legible from the road. Bigger numbers are another option for the porch gable.

I'd add a bit of landscaping. Maybe something like creeping phlox?

I think you'd enhance the entry with a wider path. One thing that upgrades the look of a cement path is a brick border. Power wash the cement and add a brick border.

Mediterranean Landscape · More Info

If you are only staying for a couple of years I would concentrate on landscaping only. This is a very charming house.

My 1988 house had the same thing when we purchased in 2019. took crown trim and baseboard off but kept windows and doors. Also sanded popcorn ceiling.

Of your 3 choices, the Shoji White looks the best IMO. But, that is an AI rendering, not real-life. You need to test paint samples in the space.

I'd sample off-whites/soft whites -- they're not going to fight with the trim. Stay away from grays and blues.

I CAN'T STAND arugula. In Newman's infamous words -- VILE WEED!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1snxhEdchY

^^ Yep.

I love arugula on pizza - is it the large leaves or small?

And FWIW, I came up with this nice, very simple salad you can make with either arugula or watercress: just thinly sliced/shaved pieces of apple, arugula or watercress, parmesan slivers/shreds, and lemon juice, proportioned to your taste - more arugula than apples and cheese, along with some pepper. Everybody always likes it.

ETA - IIRC, I did not add any salt, as the parm is enough

That sounds good! It's the snall leaves, I think. The ones that look more like wild arugula.

There were three more power outages last night. No opeing the fridge, let alone cooking, and last night was my window. I'm going to try the mayonnaise this afternoon or tomorrow night.

I wish chuck roast were $6/lb here... I'll grab and run if I see that anytime soon at the local market.

But I do love pot roast and beef stew, those are cool-weather go-to's for me if I want something easy. I also tend to make stuffed cabbage more often in colder months but that's more labor-intensive.

I'm not a soup person. DH makes a couple of good bisques and a good corn chowder but that's about the extent of my soup eating.

“Today it was 65 here…”

I’ve always said I’m happy with 65-70 temps, and one reason I like our winters here.

It's fine. But I think 77-80 is my happy place. Much under 65 and I'm miserable....

I pick anything that has a blush before a rain so they don't split and they nearly always ripen without incident. This time of year I just put them on the picnic table in the backyard, when it gets cooler they go onto a haywagon in the barn. The haywagon isn't required, though, I sometimes put them on one of those plastic shelving units that I use to start plants in the spring. A few go bad before they ripen, but most are OK.

Later in the season tomatoes never seem to have as much flavor as the earlier ones do, whether they ripen on the vine or on a shelf inside.

Annie

"Later in the season tomatoes never seem to have as much flavor as the earlier ones do, whether they ripen on the vine or on a shelf inside."

Agree. It's probably the cooler temps, especially the consistently cooler night temps.

What is the tape trick?

The SVB's got to the bon-bons too, but they held on long enough that I was able to harvest 3 of them. This is out of 2 remaining vines, though -- so not a good fruit set. I roasted one the other day and wasn't impressed by it, it tasted kinda "vine-y". But, that could be because I didn't leave on long enough to fully mature. Still, I won't grow again, takes up too much space for too little payoff.

I have to keep an eye on the weather. I leave my butternut on the fine as long as possible but when frost is predicted I get out there and harvest and cure.

I tried injecting my zucchini vines with Bt, where the vine borer holes were. It certainly helped the vines last a lot longer.

I'm thankful that I didn't have a problem with squash bugs of either type this year. I've never had the dreaded SVB but have those gray squash bugs every year. This year, not a single one, nada. No tomato worms either, which is very strange, they seem to be here every year.

As laceyvail says, every year is a new garden mystery. Meanwhile, I have a bumper crop of zucchini, yellow summer squash and butternut only because the groundhogs and the raccoons didn't eat any of those. Furry pests in the place of insect pests, but it's always something.

Annie

I'd remove them both.

I like the idea of adding wood trim around the one in the hallway. Makes it seem more purposeful.

I would remove them both.

Since the price isn’t set yet, I’d focus on showing that you’re serious and ready to move quickly rather than naming a number. Let the seller know you’re pre-approved and prepared to make an offer once the price is established. That keeps your interest clear without giving away your negotiating position.

I'm sure after 4 years the OP is either in the house or has moved on.

Oh wow, you put me to shame LOL! Your displays are just gorgeous -- so lush and healthy and beautifully designed. That alocasia display is stunning.

Too kind but of course thank you @porkchop_z5b_MI

WAX Begonia plant... Has been blooming non stop since Mid May...

Great photos in this thread! :-)

I've liked them when I've grown them, but they peter out for me, too -- definitely cool-season plants. Would make a very nice alternative to mums for fall displays.

@rouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a) they self seeded and overwinter. When they self seed, the seeds sprout in the fall as temps cool off and overwinter. They are very hardy and actively grow and occasionally bloom throughout the winter. When they fry out with summer temps, I yank them out and replace them with zinnias.

If you like the USA brand pans, Costco has a pack of 2 half-sheet pans for about $22. And I just got the new sale book, and next week they will be $5 off.

Great pics! Sounds like a very enjoyable trip.

Beautiful photos, @Annie Deighnaugh. We have friends who have done that cruise and also loved it. I am so glad that you were able to go after your bout with shingles.

As we say in St. Louis: ”Hey! Look! There’s the Arch!”

The trip looks super cool! We’ve talked about doing that!

"Worst" is subjective. I'd take a bland Red Delicious any day over the sickeningly sweet (IMO) ones that are on the market now. Honeycrisp for example. I don't like any apple that is on the sweet side, and I get a bad aftertaste from many apples. The perfect apple for me is a good dose of tartness tempered with just enough sweetness to take the edge off. My favorites are McIntosh and Pink Lady.

I'm growing some apples in my home orchard that I've never tasted before, taking it on faith that I'll like them based on the descriptions -- namely, Northern Spy, Rubinette, and Akane. I also have McIntosh and Early Pink Lady trees.

Garrison Keillor in "Lake Wobegone Days" posited that supermarket tomatoes are strip-mined in Texas...

Very funny ^^^

rweigand -- do you have pics of that floor?

Get a box and lay it all out in your light/space. That way less tonal variation and other surprises.

If, you have the budget go with Mercier. Definitely the better quality of the two.

Preverco isn't bad. A good value purchase.

Crock Pot

What a nice house -- I especially like the fireplace.

Here are some pics with soft colors of tile:

There's other colors, too, but IMO blue or green are easy to work with.

There are different shapes than subway. A good place to go looking for ideas and selection is Fireclay tile and Tile Bar.

https://www.fireclaytile.com/pages/tile

https://www.tilebar.com/

How are you thinking about tile for the range wall? I’d also want a plan for how to treat the window area - i like the idea of a pale green (warm and not minty)

eieither up to the ceiling with tile, or tile 24” up the wall and capped with a narrow walnut shelf. the win area has us stumped, we have already had to change the trim to accomodate the faucet. so the tilecannot be too thick.

Cool! I've not seen any this year, but there is a chorus of them daily so they're out there somewhere.

I was going on memory & it was right -- looked up Bill's scientific name confirms it's an annual species. Cicadas in Bills area would have to burrow deep to keep out of the frozen-soil zone.

That's right beng.

Neotibicen canicularis go deep during winters, are active above ground ~6-8 weeks at best and in numbers that are well below what the 13-17 year periodical cicadas produce.

You can be outside all day and only hear their mating calls a few times daily (several times if you're lucky) and generally during the really hot 'Dog Days' of summer.

The pics looks the same, not sure which is before and which is after. I like your house, the brick is beautiful, and you have a nice sunroom there.

I'm not sure about the awnings -- I don't think they look bad, but the house would probably look better without them. Or at least better with a solid color.

Unless I have a very good memory for previous posters' dilemmas, I take the current ones at face value. I didn't realize that this was an ongoing dilemma.

But after seeing the before I still think the new color looks great!

No to two-tone cabinetry with those floors. I would also suggest an ivory or soft creamy white that coordinates with the floor.

OP - I think going with white for the pantry cabinets is the correct decision. I didn't see your comment before posting my comment above this one - sorry for sending the other renderings. I had them - so, I posted them - but I was typing that comment when you posted your last one thanking everyone for their help.

@freedomplace1 - I don't understand your comment.

Thanks to everyone for all your great feedback! I appreciate all your suggestions.

OP thanked everyone in the comment posted about an hour before your last comment.

Are you offended because OP didn't specifically address your comment? There are many comments I've posted where the OP didn't specifically acknowledge my advice/renderings/etc. I've never expected an OP to specifically acknowledge my comments.

You should take your own advice -

If you are going to continue to show up here on this board to OFFER free design advice, you might consider investing in some manners.

@Max Lerner - get a life.

You do not have to “understand” my comment. @dani_m08. I wasn’t talking to you.

I agree with apple_pie_order. Just use your old stuff for now. So what if it looks bad for now? No one cares. Better that than making bad decisions and spend $$$ on furniture you're going to regret and have to life with for a long time because you're overwhelmed and rushed. Take your time, the furniture stores will still be in business when you have the time and mental capacity to tackle this.

Since you already have the dining-room play space and the TV-free fireplace room sorted, I’d make the family-room sofa the first purchase decision, rather than shopping for both rooms together. One option worth trying in a showroom is a sofa with a separate ottoman instead of a fixed chaise: you still get feet-up seating, but can move the ottoman if the route to the playroom turns out to be busier than expected. Ask for the dimensions with the ottoman in lounging position—not just the sofa footprint—when you tape it out at home. That lets you test the L-shape idea without committing both rooms to it.

I actually wonder if the size of these rooms is making them feel harder to furnish than they need to be. My first instinct would be not to push the furniture toward the perimeter or automatically use sectionals in both rooms.

The family room is over 24’ long, so I’d explore floating a seating group more toward the center of the room and allowing circulation to happen around it. A sofa with substantial swivel/lounge chairs and a large rug could create a much more intimate “room within the room” and make that huge space feel intentional rather than empty.

I’d approach the fireplace room similarly, but make the fireplace the focal point and create a more intimate conversation area around it. You don’t necessarily need to fill every square foot just because the rooms are large.

With two little kids, I’d also think about where your natural traffic paths and play area need to be before buying anything. The floor plan actually gives you enough room to separate circulation from the main seating areas, which could work really well here.

I think what the great minds of the world need to do is, (1) continue to develop processes that completely break down plastics, some of the work with micro-organisms is interesting, (2) continue to develop fully biodegradable forms of plastic, and (3) when #2 can be scaled cost-effectively, pass laws that ban the use of non-biodegradable plastics with exceptions for situations when a viable biodegradable alternative is not available or not advisable.

Lucky you to have it all.

The garbage company that services my area will not allow us to put compostable bags in the organics bin. I would have to make several trips to throw stuff in the bin every day to comply. I am compliant in my own way. I line the lidded 2 gallon organics bin with a small plastic bag. When it's time to to put all the bins out for garbage day organic bin is first to go, upside down to empty the bag into the large bin. Then I take the ooky bag and put it in one of the land fill bags.

Compostable bags are a no-no because apparently some companies or countries do not tell the truth.

I have no idea what either looks like, and most others probably don't either. If you want advice, you need to post pics of your choices.

Natural Patagonia Quartzite is unbeatable for unique visual depth, dramatic character, and high heat tolerance—especially if you plan to backlight it. Engineered Patagonia Quartz is easier to maintain long-term since it’s non-porous and never requires sealing, though it can look slightly less dimensional up close.

If you appreciate natural materials that age gracefully with your home, natural stone is the way to go. Feel free to explore our guide on natural vs. engineered materials at Garden State Soapstone™to see how natural stone surfaces perform!

Picture-perfect early September day here in the southern lower peninsula of MI. Wish I could bottle and sell it. Went for a short walk at dusk -- it was cool and the scent of someone's fireplace was on the air. Yep, fall's being ushered in. :0)

Im at Sandridge beach in va with my daughter and her family. The weather is perfect for the beach and for just enjoying the deck with a great view of the ocean. It really cools down at night which is nice. I am looking forward to fall and all that comes with it. Taking a cruise to Canada in October and hoping the leaves with be colorful.

I was surprised hiking the trail today and noticing many fallen leaves. I think that's a little early.

That's a good question. I really don't know the technical answer, but I'd probably rake back the mulch and put teh compost right onto the soil, unless the bark has decomposed to the extent that there's little left.

Agree with GG -- keep the compost and the mulch off the crowns.

Ditto. I would pull back the bark mulch, put the compost onto the soil, and replace the bark mulch. And yes, keep the mulch off the crowns.

:)

Dee

Hmmm...it seems like too much effort to clean it. I'd rather just wash out the stainless measuring cup, or stick it in the dishwasher. (I don't like to put plastic I use for food in the dishwasher, it picks up soap residue/taste IME).

Ok, well -- I posted too soon up-thread. I changed my mind and am returning the Made-In. Why? Because I decided to go to the Sur La Table store and found something much better for a few bucks less (but still not cheap at $44...).

The SLT handles are so much better to grip, they're wider and longer and by far more comfortable in my hand than the Made-In. The edges aren't rolled, per se, but they don't cut into my hand if I grip tight like some of the other sets I tried. I also liked that they're shallower than the Made-In and set in the drawer nicer, but that is not a big deal to me overall.

Here you can clearly see the difference in width and length of the handle between the Made-In and the SLT:

The SLT set:

SLT also has 6-pc set and 8-pc set, but I really don't need those extra cups, I just stuck with the 4-pc standard set.

It's been several years since I first posted this. I've got several carexes that are doing well and that I'm happy with and at least one that was too vigorous a spreader and had to be removed. Carex greyi and C. pennsylvanica are the only two whose names I can remember offhand. Both are doing well but C. 'Feather Falls' is eaten every winter by deer and never recover well. Only one is left.

Duplicate post.

Hey!

I’m actually researching this exact kind of material decision for a small tool I’m testing. Your situation is a great example: the cabinets, countertop and backsplash are already there, and now the flooring has to work with all of them.

The idea is to compare the actual material options in the context of the existing room and explain why one works better than another — looking at things like undertones, contrast, material harmony and overall balance rather than generating another AI redesign.

Since you’re going back for more samples next week, would you be open to trying the very early concept? No need to buy anything — I’d mainly love to know whether this approach would actually help you narrow down the decision.

Two of this group show stripy tone variations you don't see in wood floors or cabinets.