Pro Panel: Everything You Need to Know About Your Gutters
Tell-tale maintenance checks and timely repairs are key to keeping your home free of damp and leaks
Julie Butterworth
10 March 2020
Houzz Contributor and homes, architecture and property journalist. I work on a range of homes websites and edit commercial and editorial digital content at the Royal Institute of British Architects Journal. I have managed subbing departments at magazines Country Homes & Interiors and Ideal Home and web content teams for Time Inc UK’s Homes Network.
Houzz Contributor and homes, architecture and property journalist. I work on a range... More
Gutters, downpipes and other rainwater goods are designed to divert water into drains without it coming into contact with the main fabric of a building. What is required to do this efficiently will depend on the age, design and location of your property. Houzz caught up with UK-based architect Lior Brosh of Brosh Architects; building designer John Petersen of JPL Design and Construct and architect Peter Currie of Peter Currie Architects to find out everything you need to know.
What different types of guttering and downpipes are there?
Brosh explains that gutters and downpipes were introduced by the Romans and, due to obvious benefits, quickly caught on worldwide. “Up until the Georgian era, they were mainly made from lead, then cast iron was used throughout the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian periods,” says Brosh.
From the 1970s and 1980s, uPVC downpipes were introduced worldwide and became popular because of their low cost and speedy installation. “For some, uPVC is not aesthetically pleasing,” says Brosh, “and in recent years we’ve seen more guttering in zinc, aluminium and copper.”
Brosh explains that gutters and downpipes were introduced by the Romans and, due to obvious benefits, quickly caught on worldwide. “Up until the Georgian era, they were mainly made from lead, then cast iron was used throughout the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian periods,” says Brosh.
From the 1970s and 1980s, uPVC downpipes were introduced worldwide and became popular because of their low cost and speedy installation. “For some, uPVC is not aesthetically pleasing,” says Brosh, “and in recent years we’ve seen more guttering in zinc, aluminium and copper.”
According to Currie, the best metal rainwater gear is cast aluminium or cast iron. “But ‘seamless’ aluminium systems fabricated on-site are also available,” he says.
“Cast-metal systems are jointed with gaskets [or seals], whereas seamless systems are usually riveted together with a gasket material in the joint to provide a good seal.” Like cast metal, plastic gutters also have seals.
While gutters fixed to fascia and the like are sealed, downpipes are not. “Downpipes are loose-fitted, with a spigot above [which joins it to the gutter] and sockets joining the sections below,” says Currie. “This allows the downpipes to be dismantled for removing blockages, such as leaves.”
“Cast-metal systems are jointed with gaskets [or seals], whereas seamless systems are usually riveted together with a gasket material in the joint to provide a good seal.” Like cast metal, plastic gutters also have seals.
While gutters fixed to fascia and the like are sealed, downpipes are not. “Downpipes are loose-fitted, with a spigot above [which joins it to the gutter] and sockets joining the sections below,” says Currie. “This allows the downpipes to be dismantled for removing blockages, such as leaves.”
You can also buy galvanised or coloured steel gutters and downpipes. “These are sold with different profiles and can be produced or coated in various colours,” says Petersen.
“I’ve even witnessed downpipes made from asbestos,” says Brosh. “Never attempt to remove these by yourself – if you’re considering replacing them, make sure you contact a specialist.”
Need to update your gutters? Find a guttering and roofing specialist near you on Houzz who can help refresh your home
“I’ve even witnessed downpipes made from asbestos,” says Brosh. “Never attempt to remove these by yourself – if you’re considering replacing them, make sure you contact a specialist.”
Need to update your gutters? Find a guttering and roofing specialist near you on Houzz who can help refresh your home
What can go wrong with gutters and downpipes?
The point of guttering and downpipes is to divert water away from your home to prevent it from getting wet, and to ensure the ground under the edge of your roof doesn’t become saturated.
“This means gutters have to be set correctly with respect to the edge and angle of the roof slopes,” says Currie. “They need to be able to allow even the heaviest rain to flow easily to the outlets [downpipes]. The outlets need to be frequent enough, in the right position, and of the correct size to allow these flows to be discharged easily.
“Poorly designed systems may splash and overflow at the corners,” he says. “Downpipes with ‘swan necks’ or other changes of direction or angle can give rise to blockages.”
The point of guttering and downpipes is to divert water away from your home to prevent it from getting wet, and to ensure the ground under the edge of your roof doesn’t become saturated.
“This means gutters have to be set correctly with respect to the edge and angle of the roof slopes,” says Currie. “They need to be able to allow even the heaviest rain to flow easily to the outlets [downpipes]. The outlets need to be frequent enough, in the right position, and of the correct size to allow these flows to be discharged easily.
“Poorly designed systems may splash and overflow at the corners,” he says. “Downpipes with ‘swan necks’ or other changes of direction or angle can give rise to blockages.”
“The most common leaks are from joints that have missing rubber seals,” says Petersen. “Or they happen because gutters have been poorly installed over joining brackets or have been cut short and are not over the rubber seals.”
Metal rainwater gear can corrode and this is a particular problem with aluminium, according to Currie. “Inappropriate fixings or the proximity of other metals can give rise to ‘galvanic action’, which can accelerate this process, leading to physical damage and leaks.”
uPVC systems can be affected by hot weather. “Sunlight causes changes in the polymer and the plastic becomes brittle and leaks,” says Currie. If the spacing of supports is inadequate for long runs of guttering they can bend and bow, encouraging the build-up of debris and cause overflowing.
Metal rainwater gear can corrode and this is a particular problem with aluminium, according to Currie. “Inappropriate fixings or the proximity of other metals can give rise to ‘galvanic action’, which can accelerate this process, leading to physical damage and leaks.”
uPVC systems can be affected by hot weather. “Sunlight causes changes in the polymer and the plastic becomes brittle and leaks,” says Currie. If the spacing of supports is inadequate for long runs of guttering they can bend and bow, encouraging the build-up of debris and cause overflowing.
“Some problems can depend on the location and type of gutter, and if any are not laid properly, they can crack,” says Brosh. “Downpipes can be damaged or deformed or become detached from the wall, and gutters can be blocked by greenery, broken tiles and any type of rubbish.”
Blockages in parapet and valley gutters, which are built into the fabric of a building rather than being attached to the outside, can be particularly problematic. These type of gutters are less common, particularly in new homes. “They can cause large amounts of water to enter the building after storms,” says Currie, “and because small leaks in the lining of these gutters are difficult to identify, they can allow areas of the building to become saturated over time.”
Blockages in parapet and valley gutters, which are built into the fabric of a building rather than being attached to the outside, can be particularly problematic. These type of gutters are less common, particularly in new homes. “They can cause large amounts of water to enter the building after storms,” says Currie, “and because small leaks in the lining of these gutters are difficult to identify, they can allow areas of the building to become saturated over time.”
What are some of the telltale signs that there’s a problem?
“If you see a wet patch on the wall coming from the ceiling downwards, in most cases the reason is a blocked or damaged gutter or a faulty roof,” says Brosh.
“When you have rising damp, ie: wet patches with mould coming from the floor upwards, it’s likely that the ground water is penetrating into the house due to a broken or cracked damp course,” he says. “However, if the bottom of the rainwater pipe is broken, or not directed properly into the drain hole, the water will be constantly splashing onto the brick, which sucks up the water.”
“Damage from leaking gutters and downpipes is evident externally and internally by the appearance of damp patches, mould, corrosion and moss growth from prolonged dampness,” Petersen agrees. “In some cases, efflorescence, or white powdery deposits [from salts evaporating on surfaces], on brickwork, blockwork and plaster is the result of untreated surfaces and leaks. The fascia boards or eaves to which the gutters and downpipes are fixed may also be rotten due to prolonged exposure to dampness. This is evident by the timber breaking up.”
“If you see a wet patch on the wall coming from the ceiling downwards, in most cases the reason is a blocked or damaged gutter or a faulty roof,” says Brosh.
“When you have rising damp, ie: wet patches with mould coming from the floor upwards, it’s likely that the ground water is penetrating into the house due to a broken or cracked damp course,” he says. “However, if the bottom of the rainwater pipe is broken, or not directed properly into the drain hole, the water will be constantly splashing onto the brick, which sucks up the water.”
“Damage from leaking gutters and downpipes is evident externally and internally by the appearance of damp patches, mould, corrosion and moss growth from prolonged dampness,” Petersen agrees. “In some cases, efflorescence, or white powdery deposits [from salts evaporating on surfaces], on brickwork, blockwork and plaster is the result of untreated surfaces and leaks. The fascia boards or eaves to which the gutters and downpipes are fixed may also be rotten due to prolonged exposure to dampness. This is evident by the timber breaking up.”
Currie suggests this outside/inside checklist:
On the exterior of a building
Leaking or overflowing gutters and defective downpipes usually exhibit one or more of the following:
Look out for the following in your interior:
On the exterior of a building
Leaking or overflowing gutters and defective downpipes usually exhibit one or more of the following:
- Visible dripping when rain has ceased.
- Staining of brickwork underneath showing up as a comparatively dark patch where the brickwork is wet.
- Appearance of efflorescence on the surface of the brickwork.
- Local rot in your window joinery close to, or directly under, the leak.
Look out for the following in your interior:
- Plastered finishes that are damp to the touch.
- Localised areas of water damage to ceilings.
- Development of mould growth and mildew on limited areas of walls.
How can these problems be solved?
Where damp patches are found on external or internal walls directly underneath gutters or adjacent to downpipes, investigate the cause as quickly as possible, Petersen advises.
“It may simply be the case that the gutters are blocked by leaves, moss or other debris. They need to be cleaned out on an annual basis, especially those in close proximity to trees,” he says. “If gutters and downpipes are clear of blockages, it’s more than likely the joints are loose or the seals are missing or loose.”
“If leaks, rather than blockages, are noticed, they need to be addressed,” says Petersen. “Leaking compression joints may only need opening, cleaning, possibly greasing or lubricating, and then reforming, but leaks due to physical damage, corrosion or ageing will need replacement parts installed.”
Where damp patches are found on external or internal walls directly underneath gutters or adjacent to downpipes, investigate the cause as quickly as possible, Petersen advises.
“It may simply be the case that the gutters are blocked by leaves, moss or other debris. They need to be cleaned out on an annual basis, especially those in close proximity to trees,” he says. “If gutters and downpipes are clear of blockages, it’s more than likely the joints are loose or the seals are missing or loose.”
“If leaks, rather than blockages, are noticed, they need to be addressed,” says Petersen. “Leaking compression joints may only need opening, cleaning, possibly greasing or lubricating, and then reforming, but leaks due to physical damage, corrosion or ageing will need replacement parts installed.”
If your building is in a heritage overlay and the leak is on the front elevation, the repair will need to be carried out carefully, as will any repairs to these type of buildings, Curry says. Brosh recommends contacting your local council for specific information, “and make sure you get their answer in writing,” he says.
If your house is in a heritage overlay, always ask for professional advice before you take any action, says Brosh.
If your house is in a heritage overlay, always ask for professional advice before you take any action, says Brosh.
When is it time to call in an expert?
“Contact an expert if you don’t see any visible gutter or rainwater pipe problem, but notice wet patches,” says Brosh. If your home is in a heritage overlay, an architect, builder and heritage consultant may need to be involved, as well as a guttering and roofing specialist near you or a local plumber.
“Contact an expert if you don’t see any visible gutter or rainwater pipe problem, but notice wet patches,” says Brosh. If your home is in a heritage overlay, an architect, builder and heritage consultant may need to be involved, as well as a guttering and roofing specialist near you or a local plumber.
If your home is not a listed building or located in a conservation area, the solution might be more straightforward.
“If a leak is resolved simply – by remaking a weeping compression joint, for example – and there’s no internal damage, it may well be an over-reaction to seek professional advice,” says Currie. “If, however, the leak is merely a part of the problem and there are other issues that also need addressing, then it would be sensible to consult an architect or surveyor.”
Who you call in to do the repair will depend on the damage. “Most roofers will be competent to repair or replace uPVC guttering and the like,” says Currie. “However, a plumber will be needed to deal with lead gutters and flashings. Specialist companies are best used for repairs and alterations to cast-metal rainwater gear, and repairs to asphalt gutters will need asphalters.”
“In exceptional cases, where there’s evidence of extensive damp externally, internally or both, it’s advisable to seek advice from a building surveyor,” says Petersen, “as the remedial work may extend beyond the renewal or repairing of the leak on the gutters and/or downpipes.”
“If a leak is resolved simply – by remaking a weeping compression joint, for example – and there’s no internal damage, it may well be an over-reaction to seek professional advice,” says Currie. “If, however, the leak is merely a part of the problem and there are other issues that also need addressing, then it would be sensible to consult an architect or surveyor.”
Who you call in to do the repair will depend on the damage. “Most roofers will be competent to repair or replace uPVC guttering and the like,” says Currie. “However, a plumber will be needed to deal with lead gutters and flashings. Specialist companies are best used for repairs and alterations to cast-metal rainwater gear, and repairs to asphalt gutters will need asphalters.”
“In exceptional cases, where there’s evidence of extensive damp externally, internally or both, it’s advisable to seek advice from a building surveyor,” says Petersen, “as the remedial work may extend beyond the renewal or repairing of the leak on the gutters and/or downpipes.”
When is it best to replace rather than repair?
“If uPVC gutters and downpipes are cracked, they – or the damaged section – need immediate replacement,” says Petersen. “If cast-iron gutters and downpipes are cracked, split or badly corroded, then immediate replacement should also be actioned.”
Extruded aluminium, galvanised or coloured steel gutters and downpipes rarely develop material issues and usually simply need seals replacing,” says Petersen.
If the leak is easily fixed and there are no, or very few, related issues, then a repair is the obvious way to proceed, says Currie. “However, if the cause of the leak is old age or corrosion, or because the original installation was poorly designed, or if the leak has resulted in damage that means the gutters need to be removed and then reinstated, then replacement may be the only sensible option,” he explains.
“If uPVC gutters and downpipes are cracked, they – or the damaged section – need immediate replacement,” says Petersen. “If cast-iron gutters and downpipes are cracked, split or badly corroded, then immediate replacement should also be actioned.”
Extruded aluminium, galvanised or coloured steel gutters and downpipes rarely develop material issues and usually simply need seals replacing,” says Petersen.
If the leak is easily fixed and there are no, or very few, related issues, then a repair is the obvious way to proceed, says Currie. “However, if the cause of the leak is old age or corrosion, or because the original installation was poorly designed, or if the leak has resulted in damage that means the gutters need to be removed and then reinstated, then replacement may be the only sensible option,” he explains.
If I do need to replace everything and start from scratch, what would be my best option?
The choice will depend upon the age, style and location of your property – as well as your budget and personal preference, say our experts.
“Some rainwater systems, such as uPVC, are easily fitted, have low maintenance costs, and need no decoration,” says Currie, “but they aren’t very robust and have a particular appearance and limited life.
“Other options are more expensive, have a significantly longer life expectancy, are more durable, and exhibit a more appropriate appearance,” he says. “In conservation areas and with listed buildings, the choice of system may already be prescribed.”
“When it comes to a period or listed building, the first priority would be to go with what is suitable for the building,” says Brosh. “Do the research and replace like for like – or exactly how it used to be.”
“Extruded aluminium or galvanised/coloured steel gutters and downpipes tend to be substantial, eco-friendly and low maintenance,” says Petersen.
Your turn
Was this advice useful for your own guttering and pipework? Share your thoughts in the Comments below, like this story, save the images, and join the conversation.
More
Keen for more renovation inspiration? Read up on How to Use Recycled Timber in Your Renovation
The choice will depend upon the age, style and location of your property – as well as your budget and personal preference, say our experts.
“Some rainwater systems, such as uPVC, are easily fitted, have low maintenance costs, and need no decoration,” says Currie, “but they aren’t very robust and have a particular appearance and limited life.
“Other options are more expensive, have a significantly longer life expectancy, are more durable, and exhibit a more appropriate appearance,” he says. “In conservation areas and with listed buildings, the choice of system may already be prescribed.”
“When it comes to a period or listed building, the first priority would be to go with what is suitable for the building,” says Brosh. “Do the research and replace like for like – or exactly how it used to be.”
“Extruded aluminium or galvanised/coloured steel gutters and downpipes tend to be substantial, eco-friendly and low maintenance,” says Petersen.
Your turn
Was this advice useful for your own guttering and pipework? Share your thoughts in the Comments below, like this story, save the images, and join the conversation.
More
Keen for more renovation inspiration? Read up on How to Use Recycled Timber in Your Renovation
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