garden
Soil Choose a seed-starting or potting mix for best results. Moisten the mix thoroughly and let it drain. It should be thoroughly damp, with no dry clumps, but not overly wet and heavy. You can do this either before or after you add the mix to your chosen containers. Tip: Before you get started, check the seed packet for any requirements prior to planting, such as soaking or chilling the seeds. It will also tell you of any soil and light requirements.
Hayneedle SaveEmail Gardman 4-Tier Mini Greenhouse - R687 - $38.95 Create your own mini nursery outdoors. Sometimes it makes sense to create your own nursery by starting seeds in a protected spot outdoors. This technique is incredibly useful if you’re an experienced gardener looking to do intensive planting in a small space. It is also very helpful if you’re trying to extend your growing season by starting plants early in the spring or especially in the heat of summer. The ability to control your environment and keep things well-watered can really improve germination if you’re facing any type of challenging weather. Use specially designed plastic containers, available from garden supply stores. You can also use repurposed materials, such as clean yogurt containers with holes poked in the bottom. If plastic containers aren’t easy to find, some people use peat pots as an alternative, though keep in mind that peat is considered a nonrenewable resource. Use a lightweight potting mix and keep your seedlings protected from extreme sun or cold. Transplant your seedlings once two to four sets of adult leaves have formed on the plant, using the same technique as with store-bought plants...
Even more invisible than metal mesh is black plastic mesh fencing, which is often sold specifically as a “deer fence” in a 7-foot width. It can be framed in wood, like in the previous image, but it is often used as a temporary measure or as an emergency add-on to a smaller existing fence, as seen here. It is so lightweight that bamboo poles or small-diameter wooden posts can support it.
Add an attractive frame to mesh fencing. Wire mesh fencing is practical and affordable, but looks pretty scrappy on its own. Instead of stringing it up along a row of metal posts, frame it on all sides with wood. You can style the woodwork to match other nearby landscape features using trim, custom shapes, paint or other embellishments. Compared to a solid wooden fence, which can feel quite ominous, the mesh is practically invisible inside the wooden framework.
Sorenson says that installing such a water feature is well worth the effort (and certainly, these eastern cardinals, mourning dove and bluebird would agree). In her book she describes a scene that many would consider better than a top-rated sitcom: “Hummingbirds hover to drink from the edge, bluebirds jostle with goldfinches for position near the ‘bubble,’ robins arrive in families to sip and splash, and juncos bathe in leisure, freshening up after their travels. The hub-bub sometimes gives me a chuckle as I watch the little guys vying for a drink or a bath, lining up in pecking order to await their turn, or pushing their faces into the bubble.”
4. After attaching the tube to the pump, place it and the heater in the tub. 5. Cut mesh and place it so it covers the tub. Cut a hole in the mesh and thread the tube through it and the holes in the rock. Cut another, larger hole in the mesh to provide access to the heater and pump. “This allows you to do maintenance without dismantling the whole thing,” says Sorenson.
2. Group the pipes into threes and stand them upright in the bottom of the tub. 3. Run an electrical cord from the pump and heater to an outlet. Sorenson buried her wires after checking for utilities. George Premo, an electrical contractor and principal at Premo Electric, says to make sure that you use electric cords rated for direct burial. “Direct-burial cords are made for being put in the earth,” he says. “You want to bury them at least 6 to 12 inches underground, and this will prevent them from being tripped on or caught in a lawn mower.” Premo, who is licensed by the state of California to teach electric apprenticeships, and Sorenson both stress the importance of making sure cords are plugged into a GFCI-protected outlet.
1. Dig a hole and place the tub in it. If you’re unfamiliar with electrical wiring, definitely hire a licensed pro to help you with the installation. Some suggestions from Sorenson: Place the bubble rock where it will be visible from windows and also near an electrical outlet with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter). Set the reservoir so its lip is 2 to 4 inches above ground level. This will keep rain from washing debris and mud inside.
To make her own bubble rock, Sorenson gathered these materials: A reservoir tub, about 40-gallon capacity Two or three flat, stackable rocks, each drilled with a hole. (“A top stone with undulating surfaces can create tiny pools for birds to bathe,” says Sorenson.) A 4-foot-long vinyl tube (¾-inch exterior diameter, ½-inch interior diameter) 18 pieces of 3- or 4-inch-diameter PVC pipe, cut ½ inch shorter than the depth of the reservoir tub Wire mesh, the kind used in plasterwork River rock to cover the mesh Electric cord rated for direct burial 250-watt submersible heater with thermostat A fountain pump that pumps approximately 120 gallons an hour. (Sorenson uses a pump made by smartpond but says there are many brands of similar quality.) Note: The pump and the submersible heater shown are off-the-shelf items from a garden supply store designed for this purpose. To build this project, Sorenson followed the directions on the packages. If you are unsure about the process, contact a licensed electrician to assist you.
2. In the bird world, nothing beats a good bath in clean water. The second reason is the cleanliness of the water source and of the birds. “Moving water is cleaner,” Sorenson says. “Birdbaths get really messy, really fast. Birds soil the water with their droppings and feathers — and you would have to scrub them out twice a day to keep them clean.” Birds love a good bath as much as many of us do. “Every bird likes clean feathers,” Sorenson says. “Clean feathers are warmer and better for flying. When they are molting, a bath helps them shed feathers. Birds want a bath every day, even in really cold weather.” He wasn’t available for interview, but the red-bellied woodpecker in this photo appears to be happy.
Why a bubble rock? Sorenson says there are two reasons birds flock to bubble rocks. 1. Moving water is a bird magnet. “Birds can hear moving water, and it’s much easier to find,” she says. She doesn’t have much use for traditional birdbaths — shallow bowls of water that sit atop a tall pedestal. “Those kinds of things aren’t natural, and the birds don’t recognize them,” she says. “And if they are migrating, they don’t have time to figure out it’s a water source.” In this photo you see 14 American robins, one eastern bluebird and two American goldfinches enjoying the water.
In the original article, Sorenson talked about her bubble rocks that gurgle in all seasons, thanks to a submersible heater. Here it is during the cold weather that gripped Southern Indiana earlier this year. Sorenson and her husband, Charles, live outside of Mount Vernon, and they’ve spent years watching and photographing birds. Here, a mourning dove, two bluebirds and five American goldfinches demonstrate how birding can be a year-round sport. In that article, she said: “Putting in the water feature made a big difference in the number of birds that visit our yard, and moving water was necessary for our land to be designated as a certified wildlife habitat by the National Wildlife Federation.”
Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) Native to dunes and sandy, gravelly or rocky outcrops, often seen growing on highway embankments Best evergreen ground cover for full sun and dry soil. What it lacks in showy blooms, juniper makes up for with its tough disposition, growing in the toughest, driest soils. Its low, spreading habit creeps nicely around rocks and into awkward spaces, highlighting nearby showy plants and unifying landscape designs large and small. Easily the most drought-tolerant evergreen ground cover for Eastern gardens, juniper grows in any well-drained soil in full sun, including sand and on steep slopes.
Red Maple (Acer rubrum) Native to swamps, forests, fields, and river and wetland edges Most adaptable large tree. Grow red maple, also called swamp maple, for its fast growth when young and its multiseason interest. Its red flowers in early spring feed native bees, and its brilliant orange and red fall foliage rivals the iconic colored foliage of sugar maples, which are beginning to die out due to a warming climate.
Gray Birch (Betula populifolia) Grows wild in abandoned fields and disturbed areas of the East Most adaptable small tree. Gray birch is an attractive and fast-growing tree for sun or shade, wet or dry soil. It’s more resistant than other birches to the bronze birch borer pest. Grow gray birch to add quick and easy wildlife habitat to your property — its seeds and catkins feed birds, and its foliage hosts many butterfly and moth caterpillars, which in turn become a protein-rich food that birds use to feed their babies in the nest.
Trumpet Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) Native to forest edges, woodlands and ledges in southern New England and south Best flowering vine. Trumpet honeysuckle, also called coral honeysuckle, is a well-behaved flowering vine that attracts hummingbirds and won’t take over your house or yard the way Asian wisteria (Wisteria sinensis or W. floribunda) or English ivy (Hedera helix) can. Trumpet honeysuckle is perfect for twining up an arbor or along a fence line. Important note: Don’t confuse trumpet honeysuckle with trumpet creeper (Campsis radicans) or crossvine (Bignonia capreolata), which are also vines with trumpet-shaped flowers but should be avoided, due to their aggressive spreading through underground runners.
Highbush Blueberry or Lowbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum, Vaccinium angustifolium) Native to a variety of habitats, ranging from swamps and bogs to woods, fields and rocky outcrops Best edible plant. Blueberry is an essential Northern garden plant because of its delicious berries, fiery fall foliage and, depending on the species, ability to grow just about anywhere with some sun.
New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) Native to sandy pine barrens and rocky soils of eastern North America Best full-sun shrub for dry soils. This shrub makes it into the top 10 for its ability to thrive in the leanest and driest soils without wanting or needing fertilizer or watering. Planted in these conditions, it’s as close to a zero-maintenance flowering shrub that exists in the north. Billowy, white early-summer blooms attract hordes of pollinators and beneficial predatory insects that help control garden pests. New Jersey tea is hard to find for sale; look for it at native-plant nurseries in your region.
Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp) Some species are native to low woods and swamps, and others are adapted to high and dry exposed areas Most adaptable flowering shrub. Serviceberry, also called shadbush, shadblow and juneberry, is a beautiful multistemmed shrub or small tree that grows in sun or the understory of larger trees. Clouds of white flowers cover serviceberry in April, and the early-season nectar is valuable forage for many pollinators. Birds flock to feed on the pink and purple edible berries that ripen in June. The fall foliage is a striking orange and yellow, especially when grown in the sun. Plants sold in nurseries are usually natural hybrids of local species.
New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) Native to moist meadows and fields on the East Coast and south to Virginia Best full-sun perennial for moist soil and late-season blooms. The purple flowers of New England aster, along with goldenrod (Solidago spp), signal the summer’s end here in the Northeast. An important nectar and host plant for butterflies and late-season beneficial insects, it loves full sun and moist soil, but it will put on a great show in any reasonable garden soil. Allow it to self-seed and create large drifts of fall color, and watch for monarch butterflies drinking nectar from the flowers, essential fuel for their long flight south to Mexico.
Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa) Native to open, sandy soils and uplands across eastern North America, but a rare species in most New England states Best full-sun perennial for sandy or well-drained soil. This gorgeous native plant sports neon-orange blooms in early summer, attracting many butterflies and pollinators to its sweet nectar. Butterfly milkweed thrives in any sunny spot with well-draining soil, especially sand. As a milkweed, it’s an occasional food plant for monarch butterfly caterpillars, although swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), which leafs out and blooms later than the orange milkweed, is preferred as a host plant.
Instead of impulse-buying plants that strike your fancy in bloom at the nursery, first take a good look at what you have to work with. Lots of shade from trees and buildings? Choose Northeast natives such as foamflower and serviceberry, which happily bloom in the shade underneath trees. Sandy soil in full, blazing sun where nothing seems to grow well without constant fertilizer and water? Look for native-plant nurseries selling butterfly milkweed and New Jersey tea. Both are important wildlife plants, feeding a diversity of pollinator species, including the endangered monarch butterfly, but they’re rarely seen in the wild because the sandy, well-drained soils they like to grow in make for perfect areas for development. Residential landscapes are now one of the few places you are likely to see some of these beautiful plants, so incorporating them into your landscaping can help maintain their valuable attributes for generations to come. 10 Plants for Interest All Year Here are 10 plants, from herbaceous perennials to woody vines, shrubs and trees, chosen for their multiseason beauty and interest, wildlife value and adaptability to a variety of garden conditions found across t...
10. Respond to your microclimate. “Pay attention to the way the shadows fall across the space throughout the year, and put heat- and sun-loving plants in the sunniest, warmest spots, and leafy greens where they’ll get some shade,” says Masley. “If you want to see how the shadows fall in six months, check the shadows of the full moon — that’s where the sun will be in six months.“ In cool zones try placing your pots directly on the ground to absorb additional heat. Consider darker containers or containers made from metal to warm up the soil. If your site is especially warm, place the pot on a spacer or consider a mobile salad table to shade plants from afternoon heat.
9. Try cherry tomatoes. Tomatoes are great container plants, but it’s easy to forget to water them enough in the heat of summer, and tomatoes can fall victim to blossom-end rot, a problem caused by water and calcium deficiency. Masley suggests trying cherry tomatoes instead. They are less susceptible to blossom-end rot — the smaller the tomato, the easier it is to grow. Plant them in at least a 7-gallon container.
8. Start with herbs. Herbs are resilient; they’re the easiest edibles to grow and also the most convenient to have in a pot near the kitchen. How often do you actually need more than a snip or two of rosemary or basil? Thyme and oregano are especially resilient. “Basil is a must for any cook’s summer garden,” says Masley. He grows Gevovese and Napolitano (saladleaf) basil for pesto, and ‘Mrs. Burns’ Lemon’ basil for seafood and shellfish dishes. He suggests a 1-foot-diameter pot for herbs.
7. Save space with a window box. Masley suggests window boxes, especially for growing lettuces, to save space. Though they are shallower than other containers, they’re longer, so roots can run the length of the planter’s base. The wood keeps roots cool, and mounting the planters on the wall minimizes the space they occupy — great for small decks and porches — and makes harvesting a breeze.
6. Not all containers are created equal. The size of the container, as well as its shape and material, will contribute to the success of your edibles. Masley prefers globular or cylindrical pots to the traditional tapered pot. The tapered pot exposes a greater percentage of its soil to direct sunlight, leading to dry soil faster. “The top few inches of soil are always dry, so that zone is basically useless for the plant,” he says. When you minimize the exposed soil, you minimize the amount that will dry out and help keep the roots hydrated. Depending on your garden’s exposure, the color and material of your planter can affect the plants too. Southern- and western-facing spots, which receive ample sunlight, benefit from lighter-colored pots (which reflect sunlight), while northern- and eastern-facing spaces need more heat and can be planted in darker containers. Metal planters will also help warm up the soil in those cooler and darker areas. Terra-cotta pots are always good, too. For those who may need to move their planters a lot (renters, perhaps), Masley suggests fabric containers. They pack flat and are very portable.
5. The bigger the pot, the better. Yes, edibles will grow in smaller containers, but you’ll be putting yourself in a difficult spot right off the bat. The larger the pot, the deeper the roots can establish and the more resilient the plant will be. The roots will be stronger and able to hold water better and longer, helping out with your No. 1 problem. “The soil holds more water and takes longer to dry out,” says Masley. “The plants are also stronger, more resilient, and better able to handle the stress of drying.” Resist the urge to plant in those tiny random planters you have scattered around and buy the big pot first.
4. Give your edibles enough light. As with other edible gardens, six to eight hours of good light is ideal for container gardens. South- and west-facing spots are best, but it’s possible to grow edibles on north- and east-facing locations — it’s just trickier. In areas that receive less sunlight, Masley suggests planting earlier-harvest varieties. “If you really want to try a tomato, choose a cherry tomato instead of a beefsteak tomato,” he says. “Peppers like ‘Ace’ produce fruit in 70 days and may work.” Increase the spacing between the plants, say to 8 inches from 6 inches, to allow the leaves to grow and attract as much light as possible. Lettuces and greens grow well in a little less sun. You’ll just have to try different lighting conditions and see what you get.
3. Resist overcrowding. Overcrowding is a major container farming pitfall — one mistake that I know I’m guilty of. If one tomato plant is OK, then two must be good and three must be better, right? Unfortunately not. Masley says most plants need 5-gallon pots, including these pepper plants — one pepper plant needs a 5-gallon pot. Though packing in the plants may seem like a foolproof way of accounting for the failure of some plants, you are actually hindering the success and productivity of all the plants. Multiple pepper plants in one container will be in constant competition and most likely will produce less combined than one healthy plant would have. Masley says you are also setting yourself up for a lot of work with pest and disease management. “Crowded plants are stressed by competition,” he says, “making them more susceptible to pests and diseases and reducing their yields.” Give yourself a break and think one plant, one pot.
Masley uses coir in his soil mixture for increased water-holding capacity. Though many organic potting mixes suggest peat moss, Masley prefers coir. Peat moss repels water if it dries out, while coir will always absorb water and is more sustainable than peat.
He also adds a special ingredient to his soil: worm castings. Dried worm castings work, but Masley uses fresh ones — with live worms. The worms are very efficient at cycling nutrients and converting them to a form that is usable for plants. “They also enrich the potting soil with beneficial bacteria and fungi that compete with pathogens that might attack your plants,” he says.
2. Prep your soil. Ask people who grow a lot of edibles for their secret, and chances are they will all tell you the same thing: good soil. Container gardens need soil that is quick draining, moisture retentive and nutrient rich. Nurseries sell organic potting mixes, but you can also make your own. Masley warns against using soil directly from the yard as it often contains clay and silt, causing drainage problems. Masley has devised his own organic potting mix recipe: One part coarse (builder’s) sand Two parts good garden compost, sifted One part rehydrated coir (coconut husk fiber) One part 5/16-inch horticultural lava rock or perlite Mix all of these together. Masley builds organic soil amendments into the soil from the very beginning. The nutrients slowly release throughout the growing season, so all you need to do is water.
1. Get watering right. Masley says poor irrigation is the No. 1 reason edible container gardens fail. Soil in containers dries out especially quickly, so check soil moisture frequently. In an especially sunny or windy location, this may even mean watering daily or twice a day. Avoid overwatering, though, as that can create fungus and root rot. Though you can water by hand, installing an automatic drip line is the easiest and most consistent method. Masley recommends making a loop out of the drip line around the plant, instead of using a single dripper. It distributes water better, preventing plants from drowning or drying out. He also tops containers with compost to lock in moisture better.
9. Mark a garden boundary. Use pots to delineate a transition from one garden space to another. Pots can be placed at the entry to a new space or as a separation or barrier.
5. Anchor opposite sides of a gate. The scene in this photo would still be beautiful without the large pots. However, this is a great example of how the pots pull together the whole scene. They add prominence to the gate and match the color of the sculpture and gate frame. Tip: Pots can be used to hold tender plants, making it easier to transport them indoors when temperatures dip.
Don’t be afraid to choose a brightly colored container that echoes the colors found in nearby plants.
2. Cluster pots in a planting bed. Select a series of pots with similar shapes, color schemes or surfaces to create a lively grouping that breaks up a planted bed. The surface of the pots — whether smooth, rough or shiny — not only will provide interest in a planted bed but will also give the eye a place to rest. Tip: The pots don’t all have to match, but at least one of the elements listed above should tie them all together.
Placing a planted container near the front door is an excellent way to create an inviting entry experience for guests. A pot on a back patio adds color and interest and helps to draw you outside. However, there are numerous ways pots can be incorporated into the landscape beyond the front door and the back patio. Here are 10 ways to use pots to enliven your landscape. Traditional Landscape by Arthur Lathouris Garden Designer Arthur Lathouris Garden Designer SaveEmail 1. Use a single vessel as a focal point in the landscape. Place a pot among plantings to draw the eye out into the landscape. Here, a light gray container framed by lace leaf Japanese maples in a contrasting dark hue creates an intriguing vignette. Tip: Select a large vessel for extra drama and impact.
Other maintenance. If you live in a cold-winter area, drain your system before the first hard frost or freeze. Disconnect the head assembly from the water source and store it indoors. In spring, once the danger of frost and freezes has passed, flush the entire system, then check for any leaks or other damage. Repair or replace anything that is damaged.
Contemporary Greenhouses by BuilderDepot, Inc. BuilderDepot, Inc. SaveEmail Drip Irrigation Kit - $38.35 Troubleshooting It’s fairly easy to determine what’s causing a problem and to fix it. Very little water getting to a plant usually means a clogged emitter. Clean it with a thin piece of wire. If that doesn’t work, simply replace it. If there’s no water at all, and the emitter isn’t completely clogged, check for kinks in the line. If you suspect clogs, remove the end caps and flush the entire system. Taking out the emitter will let you check for a lack of overall pressure. Water where there are no emitters, or puddles forming, generally means a hole or a leak. Use goof plugs to fix the former. For slits or cuts, make a clean cut on each side of the damage, then use a coupler to hold the two ends together. Flush out the system (remove the end caps) before using it again to clean out any dirt. Popped emitters mean the pressure is too high. Install a pressure regulator that will lower the pressure.
7. Add individual emitters and any microtubing to the branch lines. Make sure the tubing is lying straight, then hold the punch at a right angle and gently twist as you insert it. If you have a separate system with sprayers, set that up as well. 8. Check for leaks, clean any clogged emitters and reposition any wayward tubing or emitter lines.
4. Add the branch lines past the individual plants and any emitter lines. Stake the end of the branch line in place, just past the main-line tubing (overlap the main line a bit). Continue to stake out the branch lines, keeping them a bit slack for fit. 5. Cut the main line to insert the branch lines. You can use a special tool, pruning shears or a sharp knife. Insert the fittings into the drip lines to form the connection. Use a combination of gentle pushing and twisting, and cover any barbed fittings completely. Don’t force anything. Instead use hot water (not soap or oil) to further soften the tubing if needed. 6. Once everything is laid out and connected, run water through the system to flush it out. When the water runs clear, turn off the water and close the ends of the lines with end caps or clamps.
Installing the System Once the preliminary work is done, you can start installation. 1. Start at the water source, which for most systems will probably be an outdoor faucet. Before you start, be sure the polyethylene tubing has warmed up and softened to avoid kinks and difficulty snaking it where you want it to go. 2. The head assembly is all the pieces that sit between the faucet and the tubing itself. Start with a timer, if you want one, then add the antisiphon unit, fertilizer injector (if using), main filter, pressure regulator and swivel adapter. 3. Insert the main-line tubing into the swivel adapter. Lay out the main line from the faucet to the garden, unrolling as you go and leaving some slack for adjustments. Stake periodically to hold it in place.
Do the math. There is a limit to how much water the tubing can handle. Start by adding the total outflow of all the emitters you plan to use. The maximum for ½-inch polyethylene tubing is 150 gph. That can mean 150 1-gph emitters, 300 ½-gph emitters or only 75 2-gph emitters. If you’re using ¼-inch tubing, the maximum is even smaller: 15 gph. If your planned water flow exceeds the recommended maximum, you’ll need to either use larger tubing or add a second circuit to your system. You’ll also need a separate circuit for microsprinklers and sprayers.
Plan your drip system. Once you’ve laid out the design, do a rough draft showing the overall size of the garden(s) and where you’re planting what. Make a copy or two of your rough plan and then draw how the system will be set up. Draw the main line to the garden. This line, which has no emitters, should be no longer than 200 feet if you’re using ½-inch tubing and only 50 feet if you’re using ¼-inch tubing. Decide where to attach any branch lines, emitter lines and microtubing. The branch lines will most likely stretch down straight rows. Emitter lines, which are flexible, are good for spreading plants, such as strawberries, and for unusually shaped spaces. Microtubing can extend off the branch lines or main line to encircle individual plants or reach tight spaces. Add the emitters. Plan for each emitter to cover at least 60 percent of the root zone (the distance the roots spread). For closely spaced vegetables, place an emitter with a ½- to 1-gph output rate every foot; slightly farther apart for clay soil and slightly closer for sandy soil. If your vegetables will be farther apart, place an emitter with a 1- to 2-gph output rate at the base of each plant. You might want to add o...
If your soil is problematic or if you just want easier access to crops, a series of raised beds, each with its own blend of plants, might be the way to go.
A mature yard might mean your vegetable gardening space is limited to pockets of space among the ornamental plants, making your garden part of the growing movement toward edible landscaping. (Petunias and pole beans are a winning combination.)
Densely packed spaces may be traditional, but access to the plants and the crops might be easier with smaller garden beds connected by walkways or perhaps with a U-shaped or keyhole design.
Start with the garden’s design. There is always the familiar rectangle or square patch of ground, either small or large, with neat and tidy rows of plants, but before you commit to that, consider other options.
Before You Buy If your edible garden is relatively compact and level, your watering needs are fairly uniform and your water pressure isn’t too high, a prepackaged drip irrigation kit designed for vegetable gardens will probably have everything you need, including step-by-step instructions. It’s a good way to get started. If things are a bit more complicated, you’ll need to do some preplanning before you head to the store. Don’t despair. It seems like a lot to do, but simply consider these guidelines for making the most of your system. It is possible to skip a step or two and chances are, things will be fine. Again, the beauty of drip irrigation is that if what you put in doesn’t work, changing it is much easier than redoing an inground irrigation system.
Drip irrigation is often the first choice for an edible garden. It provides slow and consistent water to the roots of each plant, where they need it the most, and prevents fungal diseases and weeds. It saves you water, because you measure the amount you use in gallons per hour rather than gallons per minute, and it practically eliminates water loss from overspray and evaporation. It’s also easier to install and more flexible than an inground sprinkler system and, once it’s in place, it requires less hands-on time during watering — a plus for those with larger gardens. Before you rush out to get the parts, realize that it takes some time and a bit patience to install drip irrigation, though not as much as an inground system. Plan on a day for installation — or two, if you have a lot of ground to cover. Drip systems also require more upkeep throughout the growing season — emitters and water lines are easily dislodged, damaged and clogged. Fortunately, they’re also relatively easy to troubleshoot and repair. Drip irrigation SaveEmail Basic components. The components of a drip system can be found at most home improvement stores, online and in catalogs. Your basic system will includ...
Harvest: Harvest time depends on the type of cucumbers. Once the plants start producing usable fruit, cut them off the stems while the fruits are still young, as older ones can become seedy. Plan to pick several times a week; cucumbers grow quickly. Slicers are generally good to use once they reach about 6 inches, picklers may be ready to go at 2 inches for sweet pickles and 5 inches for dill pickles; you may need to wait until long varieties reach 20 inches.
Maria Hickey & Associates Landscapes SaveEmail Cucumbers, green beans and morning glories were planted at the base of this garden tepee. As it grew, kids enjoyed playing inside the leafy structure, then harvesting the crop. Planting and care: Choose a site with fertile, well-drained soil. Sow seeds once the soil is warm and frost danger has passed. If you started plants indoors or are buying nursery starts, set them out at this time as well. If you’re using a support system, set this up when you sow seeds or plant seedlings. Place bush varieties a little closer together than what is recommended below for standard vining varieties. You can also sow successively to ensure a long harvest. To grow in hills, make soil mounds 6 to 8 inches high and 4 to 6 feet apart. Form a watering basin around each mound or set up drip irrigation. Plant four to six seeds in a circle about 1/2 to 1 inch deep. Thin to two or three seedlings per hill. If you’re growing them in rows, space the rows 3 to 6 feet apart and dig watering furrows along each row or install drip irrigation. Sow two to three seeds together, 1/2 to 1 inch deep and 8 to 12 inches apart. Thin to one seedling per grouping. For con...
When to plant: Once all danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius) Days to maturity: Generally 48 to 70; some as long as 80 Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Constant moisture Favorites: Slicers: Ashley Slicing, Bush Champion, Diva (seedless), Early Fortune, Fanfare, General Lee, Gold Standard, Marketmore 76, Orient Express, Salad Bush, Slicemaster, Spacemaster, Straight Eight, Sweet Success Picklers: Alibi, Bush Pickler, Country Fair, Diamont, Endeavor, Northern Pickling, Parisian Pickling, Pickalot, Pioneer, Russian Pickling, Snow’s Fancy, Supremo Hybrid Specialty: Amira (Armenian type), Armenian, Edmonson, Green Fingers, India Poona Kheera (brown), Japanese Climbing, Lemon, Miniature White, Striped Armenian, Suyo Long (Asian), Tasty Jade (Asian), White Wonder
Harvest: You can start harvesting once the leaves reach a reasonable size. For continued production, don’t remove more than a third of the leaves. Cut just above a node to encourage leaf production.
Care: Keep the soil most but not soggy. Plan to feed your basil at least once during the growing season; every few weeks is good if your growing season is long. Pinch back the plants and pinch off the flower stocks to encourage bushiness and leaf production. Basil is relatively carefree, occasionally bothered by slugs, snails and beetles or succumbing to gray mold or black spot. Fusarium wilt may be a problem. If so, remove and destroy the plant and rotate the planting location on a three- to four-year cycle to prevent future problems. There are also varieties that are resistant to wilt.
Planting: Look for a spot in full sun with well-drained soil. Basil needs heat to thrive. If your summers are cool and daytime temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) are rare, try planting against a south- or west-facing wall. Sow seeds ½ inch deep and 2 to 3 inches apart; thin to 1 foot apart once seedlings appear. You can also start seeds indoors four to six weeks before planning to transplant. Set seedlings or nursery plants 10 to 12 inches apart. Basil grows well in containers. Almost any size pot over 8 inches wide will work, but the larger the container, the larger the plant. Make sure drainage is adequate. Grow several different basils in one pot or pair the plant with other herbs or vegetables such as tomatoes. For a successive harvest, add new plants or sow seeds about a month to six weeks after your first planting date.
Light requirement: Full sun Water requirement: Regular water; do not let the soil dry out Prime growing season: June through September When to plant: Sow seeds or set out plants in spring and summer when the soil is warm, at least one week after the last frost date.
Give back to your garden. Fill in the empty spots in your landscape with a cover crop. While you may end up with more fava beans than you know what to do with, that’s the idea. These crops aren’t grown for food; instead, they are tilled or dug into the soil as amendments. There are a number of options available. Legumes, as fava beans and clovers, help add nitrogen to the soil; grasses add organic matter. In this photo, clover is used to cover a hillside, but it would work just as well in a vegetable garden.
Go up. Tender peas have long been considered a harbinger of spring. Start them early; you can use the same supports later in the summer to support beans, then get one last harvest of peas in during the fall.
Go underground. Start quickly maturing root crops, like carrots and beets, early in the season of course, but also plant them at the end of summer to keep them going well into the fall. Both can be overwhelmingly productive if you have a single large crop, so just plan to keep sowing small rows or patches successively. That way you’ll always have something ready to go but won't be staring at a sea of greenery and wondering if Peter Rabbit is available for some selective garden pruning.
Consider a cold frame. Cold frames and cloches let you put out vegetable seedlings earlier in the season and keep crops producing later in the season. They’re available commercially, but you can also make your own. Hinge the top of a cold frame to allow ventilation. If you want to plant directly in the garden, simply put the cold frame in place and remove the lid when the air temps warms up, replacing it as things cool down.
Go green. Lettuces and other greens will quickly go to seed and become bitter in summer, but plant them during the spring and early fall and you can enjoy fresh-from-the-garden goodness for salads and sandwiches for weeks.
Check for frost dates. While cool-season crops can even handle some frost, you’ll need to pay attention to air and soil temperatures to get the most out of your garden. This means planting early enough in fall to allow plants to reach maturity before hard frosts hit or daytime temperature drops too low (usually below about 55° Fahrenheit). In spring, you’ll need to take the opposite approach, waiting to plant until the air and soil temperatures are warm enough for the plants to thrive.
Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens SaveEmail Sedum is a great fall color perennial, and the cultivar 'Autumn Joy' has reliable golden hues. There are ground cover sedums that get orange and bright red, and since they are a succulent, they're easy to reproduce — just snap off a stem and put it in the soil; in a few years you'll have a nice specimen. Most sedums like dry to medium soil in full to partial sun, and they are a great nectar source for pollinating insects.
Jessica Helgerson Interior Design SaveEmail The worst thing you can do with fall leaves? Burn them. Most municipalities have banned leaf burning, and for good reason. Burning leaves pollutes the air, causes problems for people with respiratory illnesses and creates a fire hazard. Besides, as you can see, there are so many more worthwhile things to do with leaves.
Amy Renea SaveEmail 4. Mix leaves — shredded or not — into a compost pile now, where they’ll break down over winter. Even better: Stockpile dried leaves, in garbage bags or piled in that out-of-the-way place, for summer. In warm weather there’s an abundance of succulent green material (nitrogen) for your compost pile. But to keep the composting process aerobically working, and not rotting, it needs lots of “browns” (carbon), in the form of dried material.
Here’s how: Use a mulching mower. If there’s a bag, take it off and mow with the discharge chute facing toward the lawn, so the clippings blow on the grass instead of on the street or driveway. Set the mower height at about 3 inches. Make another pass if the leaves are still in big pieces. The shredded leaves should sit no more than ¾ inch deep on the grass. Over the winter they will break down into the soil and be gone by spring.
1. Mow them into the lawn. Together, shredded leaves and grass clippings add carbon (leaves) and nitrogen (grass) to the soil, reducing your need to add store-bought fertilizers later.
Germinating Seeds Seeds aren’t fussy about where you start them. Any container that is at least 3 inches deep and has good drainage will work. Many people sow seeds in large flats or trays, or even in large pots. Others choose individual plastic or peat pots or cell packs. Still others look outside the garden and use egg and cardboard milk cartons or old tins. The choice is yours.
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