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Kitchen Ideas

Barb Chamberlain
Barb Chamberlain
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Drawer: 2 tiers for flatware storage

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Frosted fronts on some upper cabinets, flat front drawers below. Gentle pale green cabinets, light/medium wood tone floor. Soothing palette.

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Flat panel medium wood tone cabinets. Lower drawers and island slightly lighter tone wood

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Pendant light: frosted cylinder with nickel bands top/bottom

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Light wood cabinetry color, slab front, with complementary pale wood flooring tone. NOT the fish scale tiles--too busy.

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Shaker cabinets above with frosted insets, slab-front drawers below. NOT the red backsplash--too bright and too busy with the streaky grain in the cabinets below.

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Medium tone of slab-front cabinets with glass front section at top, pale island countertop, medium floor.

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Cabinetry color in a pale cream/butter. Backsplash in a neutral tone that blends up from cabinets. Wood flooring in a warm reddish tone.

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Cabinetry color: "earth-colored stain". Glass front at top of cabinets.

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Honey tone of light cabinets. (Otherwise too white)

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Pale cabinet color. Glass front cupboards.

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Local products in colors I like. Ecotop recycled paper countertop in a pale cream, Canyon Creek cabinets in a nice mid-tone. Also like the colorful tile element in the short backsplash.

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Flat-panel light wood cabinets--love this wood color.

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Amazingly beautiful butcherblock countertop with naturally occurring wood grain design.

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Light wood floor tone, medium flat-front cabinets with horizontal lines.

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Pale green backsplash and accents with light wood tone smooth front cabinets.

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Cabinetry: smooth fronts, nice light tone. Great combo with the striking marble counter/backsplash.

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Comment
Bayward Builders

By "old", I was referring to 1920's. :). Your house should be quite square and level by comparison. Inset style cabinets are shallower as the door takes up an inch of depth that would otherwise be available for dishes etc. Check the manufacturers specs on (inside) depth before you buy. Many companies also offer 15" deep wall cabinets at modest price increase if you have the space for them. "Paint" will hold up well and offer you at least a shot at repairing any future damage. Stained wood is much harder to match anything bigger than a small scratch or dent. Either way, look for a brand that offers "conversion varnish" finishes. These are both clear for stains, or solids for paint colors. They chemically cross link, resist moisture really well and typically hold up the best in my experience. Also avoid cabinets with poor interior finishes. Lots of them come with a "melamine" wood-tone paper lining that peels off in large sheets in the not so distant future. Get finished plywood interiors if you can afford them, or at least the heavier spec melamine (it resembles Formica). -Dan

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Reply to: By "old", I was referring to 1920's. :). Your house should be quite square and level by comparison. Inset style cabinets are shallower as the door takes up an inch of depth that would otherwise be available for dishes etc. Check the manufacturers specs on (inside) depth before you buy. Many companies also offer 15" deep wall cabinets at modest price increase if you have the space for them. "Paint" will hold up well and offer you at least a shot at repairing any future damage. Stained wood is much harder to match anything bigger than a small scratch or dent. Either way, look for a brand that offers "conversion varnish" finishes. These are both clear for stains, or solids for paint colors. They chemically cross link, resist moisture really well and typically hold up the best in my experience. Also avoid cabinets with poor interior finishes. Lots of them come with a "melamine" wood-tone paper lining that peels off in large sheets in the not so distant future. Get finished plywood interiors if you can afford them, or at least the heavier spec melamine (it resembles Formica). -Dan

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Cabinet quality advice.

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The Cook's Kitchen

Answering the quality question requires a bit of an editorial, so bear with me. This is really long, so if all you care about is the bottom line pricing without any of the hundreds of other considerations that go into it, skip this. —————— Modern cabinet construction is absurdly over engineered, for bragging rights and pride, not for functionality. If anyone remembers the old 50’s built in place cabinets, that still exist in many homes, you’d understand that no one “needs” 3/4” plywood box construction, dovetail drawers, and all of the complex wood joinery that have become buzz words to sell you things. Those old built in place cabinets don’t even have backs or sides. The entire cabinet’s strength, and 80 years of existence, relies on the face frame. Most were nailed together, and had a few nailing blocks mounted to the walls. No screws, or glue, or fancy joints. This is why many carpenters insist that face frame cabinets are “superior” Well, yes, if you’re looking to use a minimum of materials, for a budget job, using those old methods will do it. And it will be “strong”. It will just lack functionality and durability in the finish. That’s where we start to see the differences in price and usability. How “strong” does something need to be? Even inexpensive 3/8” particle board sides faceframe cabinets will pass KCMA construction tests. They will last for decades, just fine, if the construction methodology used to create them is correct for the material choice used. This is the specs for plenty of “budget” cabinets, and it works well. The functional wear differences in any framed cabinet are in the corner reinforcement for stability, the hardware used for glides and hinges, and the finishes. That’s where ALL of the money differences reside. 1/2” box sides do get you a bit sturdier box, without the corner supports or I beams being more critical. Furniture board vs plywood is functionally irrelevant and a sales red herring for box construction. Any line that uses a 1/2” box, and isn’t import RTA, will be a pretty good cabinet box. The money is in the doors and faceframes. The quality of wood for the faceframes and doors. Lots of sap wood vs heart wood. Select vs Standard. Low priced woods that are soft used as “paint grade”. its why the price deduction for losing the cabinet box and just ordering a faceframes and doors is maybe 15%. How many times the door is sanded, pretreated, stained, wiped, clear coated. The quality of the finish chemicals and the time taken to finish correlates with cost. Take a nylon and slip it over your hand. Rub your hand across something like a Shenendoah tinted varnish colored cherry cabinet’s exposed end grain on a stile. Then do the same with a like like Plato. Butter. And the high quality wood, with a depth of finish! THAT is the main difference between a OK, Good and Better cabinet. OK won’t even get close. But, it’s OK for many many people. It’s somewhat similar with frameless cabinets, but the box itself becomes far far more important. The box on frameless provides all of the structural strength. The quality of materials and joinery make a difference between OK, Good, and Great. Frameless furniture board with confirmat joinery is a standard everywhere but the US, where we cling to framed cabinets. It’s a good system. But again, the box is everything. So a 5/8” standard furniture board with knockoff import hardware will not be as good quality as will 3/4” high density low formaldehyde brands with German hardware. Ikea is frameless, and uses OK box materials with Good hardware. It’s not Great, because Blum does make it to a price point. But it doesn’t need to be Great, because the vast majority of people simply can not tell the difference between Good and Great. The doors are the same way too. Gloss melamine Or Thermofoil are low cost OK ways to achieve a shiny slab door. There are Good and Great ways of doing that that will cost more money. Nothing has the luster and translucence of a polished acrylic door. It’s like a pearl, in that it has a depth to it. Polished polyester resumes paint is another possibility. None of those things are available in a budget line, because they aren’t budget options. Some better built lines offer laminate and Thermofoil doors, but like the boxes, laminate and Thermofoil come in different quality levels too. Their quality is objectively better than IKEA. Where IKEA shines is not their OK quality boxes, or Good quality hardware. Their appeal is with their transparency and accessibility to the DIY crowd. That allows creative and handy people to do their own customization for some things. Their hanging rails and leveling legs make an OK installation possible even from the inexperienced. Again, most people can’t really see the differences in installation levels, but they do exist. If they had more parts available, and tweaked a few others, Id rate the install possibility higher. One huge drawback of IKEA is that you need to be creative and handy to use them. Putting them together is only a part of it. The % of population that owns and uses tools has been steadily dropping, and hardware stores have shifted from marketing to the DIY crowd to the Do It FOR Me crowd. “IKEA hacking” to make something exist, or work, that’s readily available from other cabinet lines, appears to be yet another source of pride and bragging rights than it is about any dollar saving. The other big limitation is the limitations. The sizes are absurdly limited compared with even a very budget basic cabinet line like Woodstar. The number of doors and finishes that they offer is also quite limited. That limitation of choices has led to a whole cottage industry of selling 3rd part IKEA doors. Remember my point above? That the doors are the most expensive part of the cabinet? By the time you deal with that added expense, and the other limitations, a better optioned cabinet with the aid of the in shop Kitchen Designer blows them out of the water. But again, the choice to use IKEA is often not made objectively, but emotionally. Just like someone choosing Plain and Fancy rather than Diamond. “Good isn’t Best” is an emotional choice, when Good is objectively Good Enough for function. Pride in accomplishment, and bragging rights about self sufficiency has a big value to many people! I’m not discounting that at all. That's something that Ikea succeeds very well at tapping into. Im trying to remove the emotional component from it here, to objectively discuss that the emotional attachment exists as an element. It IS science that people who are involved in a project rate their efforts higher than if they were rating a strangers similar results. (I bet someone steps forward to call me an IKEA hater over mentioning the IKEA Effect.) The bottom line is that Ikea is an entry level quality cabinet. And that entry level quality is good enough to last for years and years without “having” to purchase higher quality to achieve longevity. If you are handy, don’t mind contributing time instead of dollars, and the doors that IKEA offers are something you like, it will be a Great Value for you. If you are either not handy, or don’t like the doors, or have size challenges, exploring other options would be better for you. The cost of your own limitations affects the value that Ikea provides.

Q

Reply to: Answering the quality question requires a bit of an editorial, so bear with me. This is really long, so if all you care about is the bottom line pricing without any of the hundreds of other considerations that go into it, skip this. —————— Modern cabinet construction is absurdly over engineered, for bragging rights and pride, not for functionality. If anyone remembers the old 50’s built in place cabinets, that still exist in many homes, you’d understand that no one “needs” 3/4” plywood box construction, dovetail drawers, and all of the complex wood joinery that have become buzz words to sell you things. Those old built in place cabinets don’t even have backs or sides. The entire cabinet’s strength, and 80 years of existence, relies on the face frame. Most were nailed together, and had a few nailing blocks mounted to the walls. No screws, or glue, or fancy joints. This is why many carpenters insist that face frame cabinets are “superior” Well, yes, if you’re looking to use a minimum of materials, for a budget job, using those old methods will do it. And it will be “strong”. It will just lack functionality and durability in the finish. That’s where we start to see the differences in price and usability. How “strong” does something need to be? Even inexpensive 3/8” particle board sides faceframe cabinets will pass KCMA construction tests. They will last for decades, just fine, if the construction methodology used to create them is correct for the material choice used. This is the specs for plenty of “budget” cabinets, and it works well. The functional wear differences in any framed cabinet are in the corner reinforcement for stability, the hardware used for glides and hinges, and the finishes. That’s where ALL of the money differences reside. 1/2” box sides do get you a bit sturdier box, without the corner supports or I beams being more critical. Furniture board vs plywood is functionally irrelevant and a sales red herring for box construction. Any line that uses a 1/2” box, and isn’t import RTA, will be a pretty good cabinet box. The money is in the doors and faceframes. The quality of wood for the faceframes and doors. Lots of sap wood vs heart wood. Select vs Standard. Low priced woods that are soft used as “paint grade”. its why the price deduction for losing the cabinet box and just ordering a faceframes and doors is maybe 15%. How many times the door is sanded, pretreated, stained, wiped, clear coated. The quality of the finish chemicals and the time taken to finish correlates with cost. Take a nylon and slip it over your hand. Rub your hand across something like a Shenendoah tinted varnish colored cherry cabinet’s exposed end grain on a stile. Then do the same with a like like Plato. Butter. And the high quality wood, with a depth of finish! THAT is the main difference between a OK, Good and Better cabinet. OK won’t even get close. But, it’s OK for many many people. It’s somewhat similar with frameless cabinets, but the box itself becomes far far more important. The box on frameless provides all of the structural strength. The quality of materials and joinery make a difference between OK, Good, and Great. Frameless furniture board with confirmat joinery is a standard everywhere but the US, where we cling to framed cabinets. It’s a good system. But again, the box is everything. So a 5/8” standard furniture board with knockoff import hardware will not be as good quality as will 3/4” high density low formaldehyde brands with German hardware. Ikea is frameless, and uses OK box materials with Good hardware. It’s not Great, because Blum does make it to a price point. But it doesn’t need to be Great, because the vast majority of people simply can not tell the difference between Good and Great. The doors are the same way too. Gloss melamine Or Thermofoil are low cost OK ways to achieve a shiny slab door. There are Good and Great ways of doing that that will cost more money. Nothing has the luster and translucence of a polished acrylic door. It’s like a pearl, in that it has a depth to it. Polished polyester resumes paint is another possibility. None of those things are available in a budget line, because they aren’t budget options. Some better built lines offer laminate and Thermofoil doors, but like the boxes, laminate and Thermofoil come in different quality levels too. Their quality is objectively better than IKEA. Where IKEA shines is not their OK quality boxes, or Good quality hardware. Their appeal is with their transparency and accessibility to the DIY crowd. That allows creative and handy people to do their own customization for some things. Their hanging rails and leveling legs make an OK installation possible even from the inexperienced. Again, most people can’t really see the differences in installation levels, but they do exist. If they had more parts available, and tweaked a few others, Id rate the install possibility higher. One huge drawback of IKEA is that you need to be creative and handy to use them. Putting them together is only a part of it. The % of population that owns and uses tools has been steadily dropping, and hardware stores have shifted from marketing to the DIY crowd to the Do It FOR Me crowd. “IKEA hacking” to make something exist, or work, that’s readily available from other cabinet lines, appears to be yet another source of pride and bragging rights than it is about any dollar saving. The other big limitation is the limitations. The sizes are absurdly limited compared with even a very budget basic cabinet line like Woodstar. The number of doors and finishes that they offer is also quite limited. That limitation of choices has led to a whole cottage industry of selling 3rd part IKEA doors. Remember my point above? That the doors are the most expensive part of the cabinet? By the time you deal with that added expense, and the other limitations, a better optioned cabinet with the aid of the in shop Kitchen Designer blows them out of the water. But again, the choice to use IKEA is often not made objectively, but emotionally. Just like someone choosing Plain and Fancy rather than Diamond. “Good isn’t Best” is an emotional choice, when Good is objectively Good Enough for function. Pride in accomplishment, and bragging rights about self sufficiency has a big value to many people! I’m not discounting that at all. That's something that Ikea succeeds very well at tapping into. Im trying to remove the emotional component from it here, to objectively discuss that the emotional attachment exists as an element. It IS science that people who are involved in a project rate their efforts higher than if they were rating a strangers similar results. (I bet someone steps forward to call me an IKEA hater over mentioning the IKEA Effect.) The bottom line is that Ikea is an entry level quality cabinet. And that entry level quality is good enough to last for years and years without “having” to purchase higher quality to achieve longevity. If you are handy, don’t mind contributing time instead of dollars, and the doors that IKEA offers are something you like, it will be a Great Value for you. If you are either not handy, or don’t like the doors, or have size challenges, exploring other options would be better for you. The cost of your own limitations affects the value that Ikea provides.

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Great details on cabinetry value/quality differences. "The bottom line is that Ikea is an entry level quality cabinet. And that entry level quality is good enough to last for years and years without “having” to purchase higher quality to achieve longevity."

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Like this gentle terra cotta color

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Such a calm color combo with cream counters, light wood. Love this look.

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Pale cream countertop color

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Pale yellowish counter color.

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Countertop color--not bright white, very subtle pattern

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Combination of light floors, soft green cabinets with some glass fronts, butcher block, pale counters. Feels so calm.

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Orange accent tile behind the cooktop

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Similar to our future layout (with some differences). Like the pale floor and pale orange cabinets.

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Kitchen-Aid lift in island.

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Pantry with pull-out shelves next to fridge. Smooth cabinet fronts. Interesting large handles on cabinets/drawers (but would they catch on clothing?)

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Open shelves that turn the corner.

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Creamy backsplash tile--not quite yellow but yellowish, warmer than white. Also like the plain birch cabinet fronts (but not the ones with a lot of dark streaky grain).

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Love the way the countertop continues up as backsplash, then the contrasting treatment and skinny ledge.

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Use of paint color inside cabinets with frosted glass fronts.

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Pale blonde island and floor. Smooth panel front cabinets with long pull handles. Glass-front cabinets.

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Love the pantry door obscuring glass panes--adds light and interest without revealing the mess.

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Like the concealed hood over the cooktop--so clean!

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Use of soffit space for open shelving, pale tones, clean cabinet fronts. Don't like the cut-out pulls on the cabinets.

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Pale tone of the wood(?) wall covering going up to the ceiling. Cabinet color too dark.

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Love the open corner shelf! Rest of it isn't my taste.

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Clean, pale tones. Variegated tile below the island is pretty shades of sand. Flooring and cabinets are attractive tones. Off-white cabinets. Clean backsplash.

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Like this pale wood flooring color.

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Tall cabinets with interesting vertical slat fronts. Open shelves with glass-front doors above--nice mix of open and slightly obscured.

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Island with banquette seating, light wood cabinets and floor. Great possibility for our space!

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Yet another with light wood floors and smooth-front light cabinets. Drawn to these.

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Slab front cabinetry; opaque glass fronts; open shelves. Like this wood tone on cabinets and floor too. Not a fan of the marble island sides though.

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Very cool faucet!

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Low sofa with clean lines and no arms as seating for dining table. Nice and clean, modern, could rearrange for an event to have more social seating in living room part of the space.

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Airy, open feeling. Pale seafoam cupboards are a pretty color. Open wood shelving. Mixed white backsplash is neutral, yet interesting. Mid-range wood floor is a nice color.

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The horizontal wood treatment on the island is cool. Like the use of a different tile treatment over the stove as a concept, not necessarily these tiles.

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Yellow cabinets (a bit too bright for me), glass-front cupboard doors. Like the butcher block counter on the island.

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Cabinet wood tone: Mid-range, not totally light, not dark, smooth fronts.

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Green cabinet color, light floor, pale wall covering.

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Green kitchen (Mediterranean Teal), butcher block counter. Like the fixture over the island too.

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Butcher block island. Clean airy feeling. Glass front cupboards.

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Color: Pale green is pretty. Like the glass-front "French door" cabinets. Floor color is nice.

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No apparent hood over cooktop (hidden inside clean cupboard lines). Frosted cupboards to either side of stove. Also saved another shot of this kitchen

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Clean lines. Sink and cooktop placement similar to possible setup on our north wall, fridge placement on east wall. No hood over cooktop--looks so clean! Cool light fixtures over island.

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Lime tile on wall is super bold but I love it. An accent somewhere? Wouldn't want to "commit" to as much as they have here. The rest of the kitchen is too dark.

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Green cabinet color is pretty.

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Red cabinets are pretty. Don't like the black backsplash--too dark. Like the glass-front cabinets, stainless steel countertop.

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Red cabinets with light floor and butcher block countertop.

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Striking wall of red cupboards, light counters, dark lower drawers, some upper cupboards with frosted glass.

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Light green glass(?) backsplash. Like both the color and the material. Can this be changed out somehow if we got tired of the color?

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Appliance garage, glass-front cabinets

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microwave-oven-warming drawer setup

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details on counter depth, height, and workstation sink

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Counter material continued as backsplash. Clean look. A few open shelves, all other cupboards seem to disappear. Like the light wood on the island front.

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Painted glass backsplash all the way up the wall. Love the clean feeling but I would hide the outlets.

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Yellow tile backsplash. Beautiful color. (don't like the busy quarter-sawn wood countertop but wood countertop would look good with this color)

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Back-painted glass as backsplash. Not in this color but it's pretty and clean (no grout!).

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Very fun bright penny tiles--colors go with my FiestaWare. Could be fun to do a free-standing tile accent piece over the cooktop that can be changed out, not affixed to the wall.

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Creamy tone of cupboards--clean but not stark white. Countertops a nice pale honey accent.

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Open feeling created by having few wall cupboards. Yellow tones in cabinetry are nice.

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Too cutesy if done in large numbers but idea of a spot here and there with a whimsical tile accent could be applied to a tile piece that hangs on wall above cooktop, not affixed to the wall so it can be changed out.

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Honey-toned countertop.

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Honey-toned countertop on island (nothing else from this! too busy!)

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Creamy/yellowish cabinet color; glass front large pantry space cool (but not practical--would have to be frosted to work for us).

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Warm natural backsplash colors, countertop in complementary tone, use of green with yellow.

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Yellow cabinets with stainless countertops

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