I'm not against colorful homes. There's bright, and then there's too bright. I wouldn't go with persimmon for the whole house. The photo you provided has lots of white trim which offsets the orange, but your house doesn't have that much trim (unless you were planning on adding some, which I think would look good no matter what color you ultimately choose, but even so, I wouldn't go with persimmon for the whole house, as it's still too bright). To repeat what @nwduck said, the other homes in the neighborhood don't appear to all be done in the bright colors, and so yours would stand out too too much. I like @deco's idea of the bright door, if you really love a bright color. For the rest of the house, any more subdued color would be fine, along with additional trim around the windows, and assuming that your siding color coordinates with your roofing color.

Tsilanko, I would always recommend professional installation where needed. But what I am doing here is suggesting that WHEN you are planning to build or renovate, to consider how your plans will affect you in 20 or 30 years time. Split levels are very hep when you are young. A kitchen 3 steps down at 30 is rarely a problem, but might be a hazard at 60, or, as Marjie1059 suggested, if you break a leg. ... All my parents' homes were terrible for old people. They were forced to move to a bungalow in extreme old sge because the location and design of their home was more suitable for an active young couple with a large family than for an elderly couple with stroke disabilities. I would not want to move again, so my present home has features built in that make ageing in place simpler. Mostly small changes, like grab rails, and lever handles on doors and faucets. A major disability suddenly suffered requires major changes if permanent. I did look at this because it came up in the discussion, but if you look at the heading, Planning for Disability, it means just that. Plan ahead so you don't have to make expensive changes later on. But thank you for your advice, yes, major changes are not in the DIY domain.

The living room window itself does not appear to be designed to let much light through. Please show a photo of that window, also of what lies outside the window. In the meantime, I suggest that you replace the builder-installed window with one of your own choosing. Use toughened glass rather than this heavy grill. Minimise the frame, if possible, particularly if there will not be much air coming through. If there is the potential of air but not much view, then have a sliding or bifold window that maximises the opening. On the blank wall outside, if that's your view, put up a green wall, creeper, something to improve the outlook. For nighttime viewing, add mild uplights in a natural white shade, focused on the greenery. Or else, you may be able to put up a reflective surface on the facing wall, to bounce in more of whatever light there is. Such as a coloured glass mural if not a plain mirror. Once you have maximised your window, move on to the wall to the right of your living room photo. That is, the wall that your living room shares with the west bedroom. Use a very large mirror on that wall to expand your living room visually and to bounce more light around. To cut down on expense/effort you can make it out of several standard-size sheets rather than one giant sheet. However, if that wall is to be covered with storage, make sure the front surface of the cabinetry is fairly light-coloured and reflective. Last, if not yet satisfied, consult a lighting expert for this room. That would be useful. These are fairly expensive solutions, all in all, but they should help.

That explains his opinion. Your description until now was for outlay doors. Slideline 16 is capable for 50-60 kg and 18-24 mm doors only. As I said earlier, not a big fan of bottom running sliding systems. Hope it works fine for you. Steel decorative strip is possible . But avoid deep cuts on the door that would increase the chances of bend/warp.