In my opinion, a cuckoo clock is a very detailed design, but you say you want a simple design for the room. When you say simple, are you thinking of no wallpaper, no wainscoting, and no accent color on the walls? It seems as if dark orange is a color you favor. I see it in art images and in your curtain color. If this was my space, I would paint all the walls one or two shades lighter than the beige of the sofa to keep the room as bright as possible because the room has no direct sunlight. I would paint the ceiling 1/4 (one part wall color to three parts white). I would use a satin or eggshell paint instead of matte, semi-gloss, or high-gloss paint. I see some discoloration on the wall behind the sofa where the brown color of the sofa frame has worn off onto the wall. I suggest attaching bumper dots or strips on the wood frame of the sofa (similar to the ones used to keep cabinet doors from making a lot noise when they are closed quickly). I would consider painting the sides of the column with the cuckoo clock brown to match the clock. I would do this to call attention to the clock. I would remove the orange curtains and replace them with floor-to-ceiling length draperies hung as close to the ceiling as possible to make the room seem larger and taller. I would change the drapery color to match the walls, perhaps in a muslin-like fabric, which is a casual fabric. I always take my art to a professional framer. I have conservation matting and museum glass used for my art. I would have the three images you have rearranged as a collage in a very large single frame with medium to wide matting between the images. I would have the mat and frame color(s) enhance the images, even if it is a color I might never have thought of on my own. I would hang it above the sofa. I would use the orange drapery fabric to make throw pillows for the sofas. You did not attach a photo of the flooring in the room. A medium tone floor is easier to keep looking clean than a light floor/rug or a very dark floor/rug. Other "Houzzers" will give you completely different ideas. Use the ideas YOU like and enjoy your home!

The wall is stunning and creative, but sadly, I have to agree with the consensus expressed on all your threads: this wood should have been bone dry, carefully checked over piece by piece for holes, insects, existing fungus etc., and probably treated and certainly well sealed before before being installed. At this point, I would cut my losses and take it down. Once the pieces are all down, it's possible that if you thoroughly scrub off all fungus with a bleach solution, then let them dry bone dry (preferably in a wood kiln or perhaps a DIY drying shed), then treat and coat, these pieces could be reinstalled. Even that depends on the conditions they'll see - if this wall is exposed to lots of steam or grease you'll be having new issues before long. Also, is the wall itself dry and solid? Any chance water is leaking or oozing from somewhere and adding to the issue? What species of wood is this? Some species are naturally more fungus resistant and appropriate for this than others. Long story short, I'd recommend finding a different way to cover the wall - with ceramic, galvanized metal, or with a really scrub-resistant paint.

I just had mold removal on my new house because the contractor decided it was a good idea to wait until the end to put down plastic. They had to spray the mold and wire brush it. Then they treated the wood and sanded it. It wasn't a cheap job. It may be easiest and cheapest to start anew. I also recommend sinking the screws and filling the holes.

The wood has to reach what's called Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC), which is different for various areas of the country/world. I don't know about end grain slabs, which is what you have, but the rule of thumb for lumber air drying (vs. kiln drying) is 1 year for each inch of thickness. Moisture leaves the end grain faster than the side and/or edge of the boards, so in your case the drying time will probably be shorter. If it is not dried in a controlled environment your slabs are going to split radially, due to drying too fast.