ssuresh316...I hope all the pros on Houzz are in agreement here. Your room can be built as you envision it but we pros leave those sort of questions to a different kind of pro. Joanne is correct in that you need an engineer...but call a structural engineer. Civil engineers do roads, drainage, utilities and surveying. Structural engineers tell us how to make the building stand up.

I am so happy to see you here! I will have to go back and see if i can retrieve my posts... thought I would make them into a little book for my daughter, with photos. Quick run-down on the bathroom (not travels, no time) - The kitchen has a rather elegant sliding door with beveled glass panels. Painted white, since this was the original colour. GD's new bathroom has the doors I had picked earlier; i thought of polishing them but decided sprayed automobile paint (on a resin primer) would wear better. Especially since it is such a small bathroom, and she is so splashy. I have this finish in my kitchen and it has lasted 15 years now. A tad chipped here and there, but only needs a wipe down once a week. Same finish for the balcony doors, also split like the bathroom. We have a new wardrobe, a study table with built-in shelves, and a small chest of drawers for her odds and ends. I want to re-tile the tiny balcony, more as a little statement. Currently we are looking at Portuguese tiles, though I did think a mosaic with a funky cat might be nice. Let me see the costing. The room will be painted a neutral adobe, with bright white woodwork and an off-white ceiling. This means she can go wild with cushions and covers. Other changes in the flat; We have changed the glass in the master bedroom and living room from small cramped panes to a single pane for each section with a 1" bevel all round. Doubles the cost of the glass, but looks so elegant! The air-conditioning is being re-located. The compressors were all mounted in the bedroom and living room balconies, which looked terrible and meant the balconies (very narrow, only 30" deep) couldn't be used for anything. Not even plants. So they are being moved so that the compressors can be mounted at the rear of the building. two down, one to go. Now we can put in some nice plants, fishtail palms etc. The kitchen counter on one side came out intact and will be reused elsewhere. I am planning overhead storage, cupboards, and a draining cupboard for plates and glasses. Right now there is no dish washer, though a place is earmarked, but for now I will put in a cupboard with steel racks for cups, glasses and plates, all hidden behind pressed glass doors. This is all in the planning stage.... Pictures in a little while, they are mostly on my ipad and don't transfer well to the mac. They come without numbers... so I have to rename the or something. Somebody tell me how to do this!

We are an online homes styling and staging company. We do space planning, furniture layouts, reuse/ repurpose old furniture with the new ones, make design boards and suggest easy solutions with great makeovers. You can check some of our work on our profile on Houzz. You could also get in touch with us on 9923893771 or email us at reema@cubspaces.com Happy Colouring! regards, Team Cubspaces

1.Remove Door and Trim If you're adjusting an existing door frame in your house, first, you will have to remove the door itself and all of the trim surrounding the frame. The door is simple enough; just pull the hinge pins out of place, tapping them from beneath with a screwdriver and mallet if necessary. For the trim, wedge a flat pry bar underneath the edge on one end of a section, and gently pull the casing away from the wall. Do the same thing for all of the pieces around the door frame and carefully set them aside to reuse later. 2.Square the Opening Off It is difficult to ensure that a door will be level and square if the rough opening is not (the rough opening is the bare bones structure before any work is done to begin a door install). So, before you begin, use a carpenter’s square to check the upper corners. This will save you time and effort later on. Remember, the more accurate your measurements, the more level your door will be. 3.Shim Door Frame Placing a pre-hung door in the rough opening will give you an idea of how it will ultimately fit. This type comes complete with a pre-made frame surrounding it, so all you need to do is carefully slide it into place and shim wherever you need around the frame to level it in the opening. Remember that wooden shims can simply be made of wedges or blocks of wood. Place a level against the door frame in your existing installation to see where you need adjustments. Then, like before, place wooden shims until it sits as it's supposed to. To keep the shims in place, nail them to the hinge. Make sure you trim any excess pieces with a saw so they sit flush with the wall. 4.Get a Level Sill Next, adjust the door sill with a flat bar or wedge until it too is level. Place the wedge or bar under the latching side of the door frame and have your help hold your door so you can check to make sure whether the top of the frame, or lintel, will need more adjustment. 5.Double Check It is important in every project to double check your work. Take the time to measure the gap between the door frame and the original rough opening. Use and nail in more wedges where necessary. If you have the extra set of hands to spare, have someone re-measure if you feel it could be adjusted differently. 6.Secure Door Frame in Opening Place your blocks of wood and/or shims into the open space over the lintel, and begin attaching the door frame to the original rough opening. Again, double check each corner to be square, before completely securing it into place. Note: Do not worry about the finishing touches just yet. You can add framing to the door after applying the paneling or drywall. Also, head and side casings will finish off a new installation nicely, covering all your small shim adjustments. Thanks & Regards, Cathrinfrancis URBELITE Bangalore