Tsilanko, I would always recommend professional installation where needed. But what I am doing here is suggesting that WHEN you are planning to build or renovate, to consider how your plans will affect you in 20 or 30 years time. Split levels are very hep when you are young. A kitchen 3 steps down at 30 is rarely a problem, but might be a hazard at 60, or, as Marjie1059 suggested, if you break a leg. ... All my parents' homes were terrible for old people. They were forced to move to a bungalow in extreme old sge because the location and design of their home was more suitable for an active young couple with a large family than for an elderly couple with stroke disabilities. I would not want to move again, so my present home has features built in that make ageing in place simpler. Mostly small changes, like grab rails, and lever handles on doors and faucets. A major disability suddenly suffered requires major changes if permanent. I did look at this because it came up in the discussion, but if you look at the heading, Planning for Disability, it means just that. Plan ahead so you don't have to make expensive changes later on. But thank you for your advice, yes, major changes are not in the DIY domain.

Usually when you get side panels you automatically have space on the sides. If you have a full depth cabinet on the top, you automatically have space at the top and in most cases you will have leave at least 1 inch of extra room for the back of the refrigerator, so there is always air circulation since everything is enclosed. In the 70's they use to make a small recessed space behind like Fred said, today you don't have to do that, most Ref have flat backs, recessed wiring, not to mention the supply for ice-maker also comes in a flush mounting kits for the wall... so pretty much everything is recessed and only space you need is for air circulation and 1" is more then enough. In addition, if you make recessed area now and you push ref to far you will never get your doors open so doing all that is a waste of time, in addition most manufacturers starting to make 30" side panels.

I would consider putting cabinets on the short wall where the utility wall is. Have your stove there centered on the area. Move the sink so it is centered on the long wall where the cooktop is now. Put the fridge on the end run of cabinets closest to the dining table. That will give you an L shape kitchen with a nice work triangle. If you have your heart set on an island remove all the wall cabinets and install a large island. This is not the style of your kitchen but it does show the layout I described above. L shape cabinetry with stove on short end, sink in the middle with DW to right of sink with cabinet above it for dish storage and the refridgerator on the end run so it is out of work triangle and conveniet to the dining area for serving or work triangle for prep and cooking. Island can be any style you desire. L shape with island and open across from island; you might consider this layout if you desire an island. Something like this?

Hi Cornerstone, I read your feedback 1. Profile handles I was late as the doors were already ready and it was too much of re-work. Regarding putting handles 2. Sharp edge can cause problem thats why the handles I have put are rounded on the edge not to hurt. 3. Where I did make a mistake was Did not put fillers. If I had put fillers on the sides the door issues could be resolved The upper cabinet handles. This is actually not my fault I had told them to put the handles in the center but they thought these are not drawers but rather cabinets so they should be put in the location where we put the vertical handles. By the time I came to check it was too late and now I am stuck. I am thinking of putting maybe 8inch handles instead of current 5inch but not sure if that would help to improve the look. Old kitchen pictures attached they also had handles but smaller