install - correct way to transition between 2 tile surfaces

5 years ago

last modified: 5 years ago

I use word “correct” and not "best" because we are receiving conflicting answers from different contractors.

We are looking at replacing laminate (2 rooms) and carpet (2 rooms) with a hard surface. Install will be done on a slab.

Originally, we wanted to put eng wood, but we are not sure how it will hold up in our high traffic area (pic below) where living room carpet meets kitchen tile. It’s the only way to transition between our living areas (front door, living room, kitchen, dinette and a staircase) and probably gets stepped on hundreds of times a day (4 people).

So, we are thinking about next best thing -wood looking tile. I would like to have a new tile installed next to our existing 14” tile without any dividers. I think it will be a cleaner look. We talked to several installers about that and everyone seems to have a different opinion on that.

Contractor #1 ( who offers 1 yr warranty on install) said “no problem”. Well, he only offers 1 yr warranty. What if we have a install problem in 2 years (tile cracking)? We'll be out of luck and have to spend more $ ti fix it.

Contractor #2 (who offers significantly longer warranty said “no way. your concrete slab expands, and contracts and your tile will crack”. He suggested wooden T-mold or tile boarder (3” tile pattern). I’m not crazy about either one of those options. I’m not sure how wooden T-mold will hold up in the high traffic area (that’s why we are not installing eng wood), plus, he said that he may or may not be able to match the color of the T-mold to tile, depending on what tile we choose. If he doesn’t, it will look weird introducing 3rd material and 3rd color to the mix. Tile border, in my opinion will draw too much attention to our floor and pronounce the difference in our surfaces and giving away that are “wood looking” tile in not really wood.

Contractor #3 suggested Schluter bar (I'm not oppose to that) but contractor #2 said that “material is best use on walls, not floors because it is too soft and will scratch and dent in high traffic area”

What are our options? Who is right and who is wrong? We are looking at $10K+ and want to get it right. I don’t want to be replacing my tile floors few years from now.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

PRO
WarmlyYours Radiant
5 years ago
If you're installing over a concrete slab that could possibly shift over the years, the ideal scenario would involve an uncoupling membrane like Prodeso's that sits under the tile to help prevent cracking. However, this does add some height to the floor which would not work if you're only adding new tile to one side of the floor.

I think if you want to keep the area a seamless transition for height without drawing too much attention to the differing floor types, that the second option sounds best with the tile border. If you're going for wood - looking tile, perhaps use just that to create a border where it buts up against the existing tile. Or find something that brings in colors from both floors so that it feels more cohesive.
Agnieszka D thanked WarmlyYours Radiant
SJ McCarthy
5 years ago
I'm not fond of a wood transition between two tile floors. Of course it is an easy install...ahem...easy on the installer that is. The Schluter system is correct. It has been used hundreds of thousands of times (should I say millions of times...who's to say the number but it is A LOT!).

If a slab that has concerns with cracking/movement (and they all have SOME sort of movement whether it be a little or a lot....so be aware) should have a decoupling membrane. And just to be clear carpet HIDES some HORRIBLE substrates. I mean *GASP* SPUTTER* HORROR* type concrete. Why you ask? Because BUILDERS know that carpet hides HORRIBLE workmanship. Ergo a carpeted slab will be MUCH uglier than a slab prepared for tile.

Here's what you are looking for in a tiling professional: https://www.tile-assn.com/

You want to WRITE OUT the contract so that it states: "To be installed per NTCA Specifications AND per tile manufacturer's instructions."

And a 1 year labour warranty is standard stuff in the building industry. You are looking at a substantial installation (if we estimate the labour alone will be $10-$12/sf and the tile/materials will be EXTRA) somewhere in the range of 500sf - 600sf (or so)??? Your quote MAY NOT include "subfloor preparation". If it DOES....please ask for the guestimate they have provided for the subfloor. If they have estimated $0.50/sf for concrete work, then they are too low. If they have estimated a MAXIMUM of $4/sf (not to exceed this amount without your written approval) then they are more in keeping with reality.

I would stick with the person who is well acquainted with the NTCA guidelines, if not a member, the person who INCLUDES the cost of a decoupling membrane, who INCLUDES the high-priced estimate for slab prep as part and parcel of his quote....and then the person who includes the Schluter system as part of the transition between floors.

Please notice how the transition is FAR down the list. Right. There are some more important things that need to be dealt with other than the final look. And Schluter has DOZENS of transition options which work with floors AND/OR wall settings. The appropriate option will be looked at before anything is laid.
Agnieszka D thanked SJ McCarthy
Related Discussions
Does my Foyer look Plush ?
Q
Comments (66)
Vikrant, is the picture taken from the front of your Entry door? I love your style and pieces. Just a few suggestions if this is the view when you first step into the foyer, I am not an expert! Ganesh in the place of the mirror to greet you and your guests as Goddess Lakshmi is supposedly behind him, will create more prosperity to the household. A recessed focal light from the ceiling to highlight its beauty. Another silver empty frame placing behind Ganesh, similar to the mirror to frame the idol or a Rajasthani silver jali work piece that way the wall behind would not look empty either! The beautiful mirror can be placed where you have the Ganesh now, that way the positive energy coming into your house does not get bounced back or out...
...See More
Meditation room design in private garden
Q
Comments (66)
Thank you roj leather and Simon for your recommendations. I like the hanging chair and the almanda creeper on the wall. This will certainly liven up the patio.
...See More
i need help for my formal living and unformal living and dinning
Q
Comments (300)
I think a comfortable distance between the island and the counter is around 42". It seems that you have only 30" between your cook top and the counter. I might be a little too tight. The wall between the entrance and the kitchen could be 4' long instead of 6', you would then be able to move the island a foot which would give you more room between the cook top and the island. Could you switch the location of the toilet and vanity in your dad's bathroom so your enter facing a vanity instead of a toilet which is a lot nicer.
...See More
Planning for disability
Q
Comments (228)
Tsilanko, I would always recommend professional installation where needed. But what I am doing here is suggesting that WHEN you are planning to build or renovate, to consider how your plans will affect you in 20 or 30 years time. Split levels are very hep when you are young. A kitchen 3 steps down at 30 is rarely a problem, but might be a hazard at 60, or, as Marjie1059 suggested, if you break a leg. ... All my parents' homes were terrible for old people. They were forced to move to a bungalow in extreme old sge because the location and design of their home was more suitable for an active young couple with a large family than for an elderly couple with stroke disabilities. I would not want to move again, so my present home has features built in that make ageing in place simpler. Mostly small changes, like grab rails, and lever handles on doors and faucets. A major disability suddenly suffered requires major changes if permanent. I did look at this because it came up in the discussion, but if you look at the heading, Planning for Disability, it means just that. Plan ahead so you don't have to make expensive changes later on. But thank you for your advice, yes, major changes are not in the DIY domain.
...See More
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
I agree this is a large amount of money no matter what you choose and to be honest I prefer good quality laminate to cheap ENG wood for longevity in a well used space.I have laminate from a company from Germany it has stood up to many large parties 40+ guests, 3 huge dogs and I run a catering biz from my home. The company name is Kronotex and they have dist. in the US.I really dislike tile everywhere unless you live in tropics plus the fact it is hard on your back, knees and feet.I would do all the floors including the kitchen .BTW way schluter makes trim pieces for all kinds of different installations
Agnieszka D thanked Patricia Colwell Consulting
geoffrey_b
5 years ago
Check out Schluter Transition
Agnieszka D thanked geoffrey_b
Rachel Nye
5 years ago
We have Bella Cera Engineered Hardwood throughout our home. Holds up very well.

install - correct way to transition between 2 tile surfaces

Comments (5)

WarmlyYours Radiant

SJ McCarthy

Related Discussions

Patricia Colwell Consulting

geoffrey_b

Rachel Nye

COMPANY

EXPLORE HOUZZ

CONNECT WITH US