Well, I suppose you feel your time is not valuable. Those clients I want to work for get paid for their time; why shouldn’t I? Not sure why you think your time is not as valuable as theirs.

When I was building my current home, I had ordered a sink from a well known manufacturer. The cabinet maker contacted the manufacturer for explicit size measurements so he could build the cabinet around it so everything would be ready for the instillation when it arrived. Well, it did arrive - 2 months late and was the wrong size. Turned out the manufacturer gave the wrong information to my cabinet maker. The sink that did fit the hole that was built for it was one that I did not want. So we had to do some scrambling. I couldn't find anything desirable. My builder asked me if I would be interested in a Shaw fireclay. Most of the size was similar except for the weight and the front edge. The carpenter did a great job in enlarging the front and putting in a shelf with a very beautiful and arty looking around edge. He also shored up the back end so it would sit nicely and hold the weight. And since it was an under mount, we also had to redo the counter top. What an expense.

Thank goodness after a number of months, the manufacturer of the first sink agreed to split the bill for the extra costs involved, which helped.

And today - 22 years later, I still have the Shaw sink and the granite counter top!

As to the discussion about paying for quotes or initial contact information, in my experience, it depends on the services and products offered as well as the location.

As for quotes, most physical jobs require them and generally they come along with the territory. I get quotes and basic information from cleaning crews, landscaping crews, landscape and home architects, handy man and even interior designers. Even the roofer I hired and the painters didn't require money for the initial quote and short interview.

Examples: I interviewed 2 land architects individually when we strolled through the acreage in question. I laid out my ideas and what my goals were. I also asked questions of the architects and they both asked questions of me. I did define what I needed so there was an understanding. Both also gave me a general idea of cost of their services along with flexibility as well as possible additional costs with engineer, survey crew and so on. I was able to let them know my builder and I would hire the survey crew as well as the dirt man. It was also possible we would use a landscaper. It wasn't a problem with either architects. One interview lasted 40 minutes. The other lasted 2 hours. And that was because the land architect was really enjoying himself from the change of his usual jobs, so he just had to explore his creativity with all sorts of suggestions I was not expecting nor asked. In any case, I ended up hiring the second architect. A year later, he has not disappointed me. And yes, we worked out a contract.

Even the house architect designer I hired never charged for the initial meeting. I had brought a portfolio of ideas for the cottage in the woods and what I wanted. I had it all written. We both asked questions back and forth including services, charges, timeline, experience and knowledge as well as creativity. He just told me, when I was ready, to send him a deposit of x dollars and he'll start work on the initial drawings.

However, for doctors and lawyers, they all charge for first visit.

In many jobs that are long term such as the land architect, we work things per phase which makes it easier as we start each phase. Same thing with my builder and he'll be working with me during this entire 5 year project. In many phases of this project, I'll need educating in various ways of completing a singular phase. However, as for budget, I know my budget for the entire project which includes individual 'oops' factors.

So, I break down that budget for house, land, pond, garage, two external buildings, bridge and landscaper. As I let each professional know what I am budgeting (for their portion), I also let them know that I am a little flexible. I DO NOT let any one professional know how much I have for the entire project. With my land architect if he presents things that are a bit higher than what I wanted to spend, I tell him - that I'm mostly focusing on the house, but need to land work basic for all wildlife and that it will be an ongoing process. This way, the hardscape (the money pit) items are toned way down on the list. It works for me.

Very good, It is a common sense answer, We would gladly work with a client with an attitude like yours, It looks like you and your contractors work hand in hand. Our client's also have a good attitude. It is called Mutual respect. We find this is the only way to have great projects.

Happy Renovating

My biggest challenge was being able unable to know exactly when various tasks would take place. Fortunately, my contractor and I were able to communicate often and everyone had access as needed. Texting was a godsend. In the end, the work was beautiful and is exactly what I had in mind. It came in within my budget too.

Finding a good contractor who is willing to take on a smaller remodel. Here in Dallas we have so much construction going on that contractors are hard to find and then they only want to do bigger projects. My bathroom isn't huge and I am not doing a total gut.

This wouldn't work for everyone, but I know so many people who have had major problems with their contractors that when I did my kitchen and bath, I hired the carpenter, plumber and electrician separately (making sure they were willing to coordinate with each other and with me) and purchased most of the major items myself. The sink is an old farmhouse with legs from Craig's List and the old clawfoot tub was found on E-Bay; I went to Puebla, Dolores Hidalgo and San Luis Potosí in Mexico to choose the tiles ( the whole vacation cost less than it would have cost to buy them from the US retailers) and they shipped direct to me in the States; I found the appliances at Home Depot sales and a local appliance discounter; and I bought the faucets and cabinet hardware online at a discount. I could never have afforded it otherwise and I'm very happy with the result. I also learned a lot; luckily I had a phone and computer handy at work, so in an emergency I could check things out and tell the workmen what to do. It can be challenging to find people who will work for a woman and not try to take over, but my guys were great!

My friend had his bathroom redone and then a few weeks later found the acrylic tub (Jacuzzi brand) was defective. He had special ordered it from Lowe's. Neither Jacuzzi nor Lowe's have done anything to correct it after a year of dozens of emails, dozens of photos. Jacuzzi asked him to submit photos 3 times because they couldn't find them. My friend is tearing his hair out. I'm planning a bath and kitchen remodel and will not be buying at Lowe's.

This is a good example of why homeowners should not purchase materials for a project. The contractor has a relationship with suppliers and has more leverage than a homeowner to correct defective materials.

@Pamela Foster & Associates, Inc.: I so agree with you 1000%. When, 22 years ago building my ranch, a well known manufacturer sent the builder the measurements for the kitchen sink that I had approved. Turned out to be wrong measurements. Builder contacted mfg the next day. The mfg didn't have any sink that size that I wanted. They totally not only refunded the money, but also paid a percentage of the redo that included the cabinetry and the counter which was cut per measurements given. And it was all accomplished within two weeks.

I did find another sink - the one I do have (Shaw Original from Rohl). Of course, the cabinet had to be changed and beefed up for the weight. However, I appreciated the mfg willingness and honesty to help out the project. And what a great rebound my builder and carpenter did.

When I did a small renovation years later, I purchased faucets (through a kitch/bath place with my plumber) from the original 'oops' mfg. Not only did they have the style I liked, but great customer service.

You don't get that with box stores selling to the homeowner. BTDT

We had a master bath completed about 15 months ago...met with two contractors. I was specific as far as colors with the first vendor, but his recommendations when we met for a design meeting were nothing I'd stipulated. Signed with the second contractor and everything went well...until I realized that the bullnose white tile they installed didn't match the white subway tile installed. ??? How in the heck could that have happened? Was at least a week later til I realized it and by that time it was too late. Lesson learned...as I'll know what to be aware of for the next project!

Hubby recently completed a total gut/rehab of our third bathroom. He is almost 75 and not a tradesman. Watching a lot of HGTV and YouTube, he did a great job by taking his time and doing his research. Kept the same layout and no major plumbing had to be done.

Previously, we had hired a professional to rehab the other two bathrooms to the tune of $6K-7K. The most expensive item? The marble tile I chose for the floor. Being willing to attempt this project saved us $5,000.

We did a complete redo of our living room, kitchen, and 2nd bathroom at our primary residence in Florida. The biggest problem we ran into was the tile we had chosen and which was partially installed had a "bubble" flaw in the finish. The tile guy brought this to my attention. We had 1100 sq ft of tile to do so I ended up going over each tile and marking the imperfections. It was that solution or tearing up the tile that was already down and trying to find another that worked-about a 3 week delay. My tile guy was awesome and was able to use the flawed tiles in areas where they don't show or where he could cut it off. There are a couple of tiles that have the flaw and they remind me that I worked hard to get this floor right but nothing is ever perfect.

We really feel for customers here in Hawaii; for several reasons. First, it can be difficult to find reliable, competent people to work on your home. We hear stories all the time about homeowners giving large deposits to contractors and then never see them again. Or they just stop showing up one day and move off island- it is crazy to think that this could happen. Secondly, materials have to be shipped here, literally on a ship. Those boats go slow and can sit in the harbor for up to ten days before they are full and ready to sail. This causes a lot of problems, timing obviously, but also a lot of damage occurs to wood while it sits on top of humid salt water. Cabinets that are built and shipped here have a tendency to swell, causing the joints to pop. Shaker doors that come apart brand new can break your heart.

We offer free estimates, that includes a site visit and measure along with discussion about style and function of the space. We wouldn't dream of charging for that. However, knowing a clients budget does help us keep them where they need to be. If you tell me your budget is XX and then start showing me photos of uber expensive counter materials, I can let you know that you might be able to have that specific counter if you are willing to change the dovetail drawers and door style of your cabinetry. Our price doesn't change based on your ability to pay. I would hope that during the conversation about budget, that no one would ever get the feeling we were trying to inflate our price to fit a higher budget- that would be a terrible feeling. Trusting your contractors makes the process so much easier. We also strongly encourage people to wait on the demo of their kitchen until everything is in place, cabinets, flooring, your electrician and plumber are available, etc., it is just so much easier to wait while you still have the kitchen.

@RedRyder: I feel for you. At least you know you want tile! LOL I find myself in the same situation, not just tile, but with colours, flooring in other spaces and so on. So, I have a process that might work for you - or might not. :)

I want a stone floor in my bath - but what kind? Do I want natural or tile? I decided to select tile due to the water permeability being zilch. So, what kind of tile? There are two to choose from. Ceramic or Porcelain. I decided to go with porcelain since it's denser, less porous and has a better stain and water resistance than ceramic. It also does well for radiant in-floor heating, which I am considering (thanks to Becky Harris' article on her bath).

Now, I'm at porcelain. Finish? What type - polished or smooth. Do I want shiny or not.

I decide not shiny, even a bit rough if I can get it. What is the style of my bath? Well, it will be Victorian - turn of the century with a claw footed slipper tub, gothic windows and embrasures. The tub will be painted a darkish blue or green (haven't decided yet) with a whimsical forest scene with flowers, trees, grass, butterflies, an elf or two and maybe a fairie and dragon, just for fun. The sink will also have a Victorian feel as well as an 1840 Hall Tree to hold towels along with a teak or bamboo small platform at the tub for in/out.

My colours will be forest colours with greens and blues and browns with Venetian Plaster for walls. I'll probably use a green for the walls (light of course). So, I'll want to have a floor that is Victorian feel with forest colours. I might go with an off white (maybe cream or very light brown) tile with a patterns such as hex with flowers in between that are darkish blue like my tub. The embrasures for the gothic windows will be painted green to meld in with the walls but not identical.

So, that kinda narrows what tiles I'll buy for my Victorian forest bathroom. It takes a while to work through the process, but it makes a big difference for doing final selections. Then I would do the same thing for the shower tiles, and the wainscoting and even the finished decorative "mill work" tile above the tile wainscot.

Just break down the project into mini steps and you'll find it a lot more doable.

Question for those with experience in this area - I am updating my kitchen which is open & flows into the rest of my home. We have oak floors throughout with large wool area rugs anchoring each room. I've just received the bid back from the kitchen designer for the cabinetry only & it's about 90% of my budget before the remainder of the components come into play. I'd like to refinish the kitchen/breakfast nook oak floors but if I do that, several other rooms and hall would also need refinishing. I've considered lifting the oak floors in the kitchen and breakfast room & replacing with tile but considering everything else, the expense of that is not a good value for us. W/o droning on about all the details, has anyone successfully refinished hardwood floors w/o continuing into adjoining rooms?

Yes, I refinished the Greatroom floors, but not a bedroom floor w/same wood [& need]. With a door separating the spaces, it's really a non-issue [except for my notice of the unfinished-floor room...and it always makes me think, I should have done this floor also].

Thank you, lazidazi. There is no door into my kitchen, it is totally open to the rest of the main level.

Moral of PJ Din's story: When a contractor or trades person gives you a time line estimate - double it and you'll never be disappointed. My builder told me it would take 5 months to build my ranch house - 22 years ago. I laughed and said - how about 10 months. It took 9 and a half months! :)

PS there is always the 'oops' factor by some manufacturer or delivery or contractor. Dats just life. :)

PS: PJ - your new kitch is just marvelous! Take care of that puppy dog of yours! LOL

After 18 years of remodeling projects in 2 different houses, I'd like to think I've learned a few things. I have never used a designer, so I have always been in control (for better or worse) of the material selections and timelines. The most challenging issue I continually run into is finding contractors willing to take on small jobs. My metro area is in a new-housing boom, so the independents are always busy subcontracting to the builders.

We have built three houses and totally renovated 3 more. This is the advise I give everyone - always work from complete and accurate blueprints, including change orders. If you decide to move a doorway, make sure it is on the blueprints. If you want a wall switch next to the bed - on the plans. If you want the kitchen counters 2 inches taller than standard because you are 6'4" tall - make sure there is notations. Make sure all plumbing, electrical and HVAC specifications are accurate. Also, I have twice made the mistake of not firing an electrician who was disrupting the project and refusing to follow the directions of the general contractor, me and the plans.

The carpenter and I were on the same schedule, but three no show plumbers threw everything off. Actually four if I count the one I started the kitchen reno project with. I contacted his recommended carpenter, but that carpenter gave up when the plumber wouldn't return calls from either of us. The 2nd carpenter had his own plumber lined up. Said plumber came by to see what was needed, but failed to show up to do the work! Two others said they would but didn't. Lots of unnecessary stress. Amazing that people can stay in business with such lack of professionalism and consideration.

This tiled floor blew my budget on this recently renovated bathroom. But I love it to bits! Went with the Ditra in-floor heat system from Schleuter. The large porcelain tiles were a challenge as my old house has wonky floors. It took 12 bags of levelling cement to get a level base! Always hire the best tile installer you can find.

So pretty Marsha!

A good rule to go by...the older your house is, the more likely you will have delays, issues and cost overruns.

If you have an old house, 1940's-ish, right away the contractor should know the studs may not be at 16" centers, and structural framing will likely be toe-in nailed and apposed to having Simpson strapping ties (or similar). If you live in a hurricane or tornado zone I would presume you would need the same or similar framing codes as I deal with in an earthquake zone (likely more).

If you have plaster walls then that makes everything many times more difficult.

The more you know about your home the more you can consider when calculating your remodeling costs.

p.s. Whatever you do, don't use the numbers you see on TV, they are always lower than reality....

I have been planning to renovate my kitchen since I bought this house 9 years ago. The major issues that get in the way are funding and deciding on a plan. Every time I think I know what I want, I come across another idea that I love and want to implement, causing me to rethink the whole thing. It has been so long I could have done the reno and redone it by now. I know that I need to decide on a plan and stick to it before a contractor ever walks in the door.

@Brandi,

This is my world too. I design/build $60k kitchens but my kitchen is over 25 years old. Had I remodeled it 20 years ago I would hate it today. When I do remodel it, I will make a basic functional design...knowing I will hate the look of it within months :)

As they say, a landscaper's yard is unkept.

The HGTV quotes burn me up too! Tarek El Moussa glances as a disastrously bad bathroom and casually says, "Yeah this is a gut and redo. About $6,000." Perhaps that number would've cut it when those flipshacks were originally built, but not today and certainly not with Christina El Moussa's lavish taste in needlessly high-end finishes and glam touches. But at least those lowball numbers they bandy about should cover her teeth whitening sessions and vocal fry lessons.

If I can save even one person from these mistakes... If you're a perfectionist, don't trust your contractor--no matter how wonderful and trustworthy and likable he/she is--to choose anything for you. You get lulled into complacency--sure, I don't need to check the countertop slab at the stone yard--and then you're sorry. Make sure your contractor takes notes when you make an interim decision. Maybe let him/her know in advance that if something is wrong, you're going to insist on fixing it. Finally, check the progress EVERY DAY, ask what was done that day. So you can notice when the outlets are installed in the wrong place. Finally, when you notice the mistakes, if it's too late, breathe and let it go. So much for being a perfectionist.

Jaffeb, there is a possibility that the contractor (me) is a perfectionist too.

Note to contractors:

Potential clients like jaffeb give themselves away or with the easiest of questioning. You have two choices. Avoid him and his kind or charge accordingly. I don't want to hear you whine when you fail to choose appropriately.

Jaffeb,

I am truly sorry if you have had a bad experience with a contractor. You certainly aren't the first. It almost sounds like you are in California (Contractors board is almost non-existent here). I have to watch the few sub-contractors I use like they are children, all they care about is their paycheck. But that is what your general contractor is supposed to be good for ( a dying breed in my town)

But like Pamela said, I am a perfectionist too. I simply can't sleep at night knowing I did sloppy work, even after 30 years of this.

If you were in San Diego I would rock your world....

With any construction, what ever you plan on spending and/or are quoted, double it and when you have that set aside, then start your project. Nothing ever stays the same as originally planned and new issues always pop up.

Hey guys, don't misunderstand me. The contractor does great work, I'm just saying that if you're a perfectionist, don't give up control of the details. That's all.

@Angela,

Beautiful bathroom you have. 1.5 weeks overdue is exceptional.

For anyone looking to get a remodel, especially if you are on a tight budget, never pressure your contractor to get it done by a certain date. This only promotes corner-cutting. I practically make my living tearing out new bathroom remodels because the previous contractor tried to skip steps, cut corners which had a compounding negative effect which ultimately rendered the remodel a total waste of money (i.e. shower pan leaking, floor tile cracking, doors rub against the door jamb, etc). There is always an accumulation effect which makes the homeowner lose confidence with the integrity of the work. They go with a new contractor rather than dealing with the original remodeler....and the legal courts.

No contractor can walk into your home and predict what problems are buried in your walls...gotta give them time to do the job right.

Additionally, you can have an architect/designer design the most amazing recreation of your dream....doesn't mean it can be done, and doesn't mean it can be done on budget, without change orders and issues. When I work with a designer I typically see quite a few things which are nearly impossible to do...such as buying 24x24 tiles, cut it in half, put on wall....never gonna happen. No tile saw can rip through 100 sqft of 24's and end up with perfect, square, even sized tiles with smooth edges.

Anything can be designed, but built? That is a whole other issue imo.

None of the votes really addressed my problem, which was designing a bathroom remodel. I selected budgeting because the remodel was so recent that there is resistance for doing another remodel.

I am an artist, with firm ideas on how I wanted my bathroom to look. It is a tiny 5'x11', which is the largest in this neighborhood. My mom wanted a linen closet, so the furnace was dropped to the basement, making the closet space available for a later expansion. This was done to convert to the 5'x11' handicap bathroom for my father.

Since all the persons involved in the remodel were men, the results were no counter space at all beside the sink; no place to put shampoo, etc. in the shower; the toilet is the first thing you see when you look in; the lights above the sink mirror are overhead, which casts a shadow; there is no place to store a trash can, diaper pail, sink step stool (I am thinking about the buyers when I am dead and the house is sold), my foot massager, etc.

houzz has helped me in many ways, not only in designing this bathroom, but also in other areas such as landscaping that I know nothing about. It has taken me about five years to design this bathroom, but I have everything on my wish list. Thank you, houzz.

kitchen remodel. my kitchen looks great, but it is very dysfunctional, simply because I cannot reach beyond the lower shelf on all the overhead cabinets. in the remodel I have planned, the twelve inch high ceiling level cabinets will be aligned the same as those tall cabinets were. the tall cabinets come out, and will be used in various places elsewhere. some will be used to form a buffet, for example. others will be stacked two cabinets high for a pantry. some will be used for a downstairs kitchen.

the web info says that wheels should not be used on hardwood floors, so these will have the glides that are used to help move furniture.

"Since all the persons involved in the remodel were men, the results were no counter space at all beside the sink; no place to put shampoo, etc. in the shower; the toilet is the first thing you see when you look in; the lights above the sink mirror are overhead, which casts a shadow; there is no place to store a trash can, diaper pail, sink step stool (I am thinking about the buyers when I am dead and the house is sold), my foot massager, etc."

I know men who would not have made any of these mistakes. I did offer advice, which was ignored; the general feeling was, "this bathroom is not for you, so shut up".

@sherrainex: Are you aware that there are wheels, ie casters made specifically for hardwood floors? "the web info says that wheels should not be used on hardwood floors" Ya just can't believe everything you read or see on the internet! :) Best policy I have is to get certain information from very reliable sources. Sources depends on subject in question.

Wheelchair wheels are also available for wood floors, too. :)

If you do place lights above a mirror in a bath because there isn't room along the sides of the mirror, deal with lumens, colour emitted and placement. Some are too high or too low. But it is true, the best and easiest lighting for putting on makeup, shaving, and tweezing eyebrows are usually placed along side the mirror about 28" apart and around 6' off the floor. But that isn't always possible in every bath. Some only have space above the mirror. That's why there are lighted portable mirrors, too. :)

thank you for this info; I will be buying those wheels. what are the best search terms for learning about the correct stuff for bathroom mirrors on the lighting? thanks.

@sherrainex: Houzz has quite a few good articles on bathroom lighting and mirrors. Lots of things to learn about type of lighting - here's a nice Bathroom lighting guide through lumens.com. BH&G also has good bathroom guide.

If you are into old houses and styles, This Old House offers how to deal with poor lighting in the bathroom. And although modern, this guide shows how to make the best of what you have or wish to change. It's PDF so it's easy if you want to download it.

There is plenty of material above for you to read and digest until you figure out your situation and what to do about it to make it better.

My plumber connected the hot water to the wc