Mohammad. I understand your program. You may be lost in the details at the moment. Please do follow and trust the advice given here by all these people. You are about to embark on a reasonably expensive journey. Get professional help with someone who you can sit down at a table and brainstorm with them your ideas and intentions. There are Architects and there are professional building designers who are members of the American Institute of Building Design (AIBD) who are well versed in projects such as yours. I personally love a design challenge. After 38 years designing homes and special use buildings I enjoy this type of challenge the most. I am in Ohio and may not be close to where you are but I am sure with a little investigation you will find the best design professional for you.

Debbie, acm - Thank you very much for responding. This is a new apartment and not a remodel. I have attached the floor plan of the room & closet. In the photo below the closet is the space "DRESS" and having dimensions 5 ft 11" (X axis) x 4 ft 7" (Y axis). For representational purposes, the diagram shows an L shaped closet. Ignore that - this is a complete blank space. I am instead planning on putting the closet along the 5 ft 11" wall- but on the opposite side instead of the side shown in the diagram. So imagine my closet along a single wall, set against the wall marked with a thick dark line. acm - I did not mean a bi-fold. But rather the traditional shutter door which some may refer as a swing shutter. My dilemma is - should i use sliding doors or regular doors ? I divided my closet into 4 major compartments, each 1 ft 6" wide. So there are a total of 4 doors. Depth of closet is 2 ft. Hence walkthru space is 2 ft 6". When a closet door is open, there wld be 1 ft space between the open door & the wall. Within each of these 4 compartments, I have designed multiple external drawers upto 2 ft height from base. So the shutters/doors planned only for the portion above 2 ft. Sliding Doors - Pros - Swing space not needed. Can place a slim dresser in the corner if I want to later. Cons - Expensive as it will needlessly cover the bottom-most drawers; Sliding doors coming off rails. Regular Doors Pros - Inexpensive. Can be used to cover only the part above the drawers (need not cover drawers). This way I can open the drawers below quickly & easily. Cons - Not sure if 2 ft 6" is enough clearance space to open 18" doors. Hope this makes sense. What do you suggest?

Hi Manas, There is one option i.e. if you don't want to do any major changes you will have to take the wiring from sofa wall till TV wall and you can hide it using conduit. Or You can take a grove from one wall till the partition wall and get it filled. Partition is supposed to be a ply wall of 3 inches which will have framework in center and ply on either sides. We are attaching two reference images one with designer panel and one with plane. You can use whichever you like. We hope this will help you achieve your required design. In case of doubt, queries are most welcome. Best Regards Team Offroad

Hi, I am from Assam, Guwahati. Yes it is warm humid place with lot of rains (like kerala). The bookcase is gradually drying. Fortunately last few days were very sunny and airy and my room has two big windows. Few mor details of my bookcase. It is 8 feet wide, 6 feet tall and 11 inch deep. It was attached with wall with 6 wall screw and has four pair of legs.I ask the carpenter to divide the bookcase into 3 part (32 inch each) and two door system for each part. Every part has 6 shelve from top to botom. There is no plywood or wood in back. I made it that way because the bookcase is attached in my room's inner wall I understand that the bookcase may have very little gap in between wall and wooden planks and i am ready for it. But I have no idea that beacuse of faulty mesurement, it became 1 inch gap between wall and sheve in the upper side. In lower side it is very minimum gap. I stop the carpenters to put the glass door. But now I see that they also make fault in making the doors. The doors are heavier that the shelf. The wooden planks are 1 inch thick while the door are 1.1/2 inch thick. I actually visit few hardwere shops here, but most have no ideas what to do and few says to apply wall putty to fill the gap. But my back wall is coloured (old wall, that why) and wall putty will not set on old wall and timber. I cannot remove it now from the wall otherwise the wall may destroyed. I really need a step by step guide now that what to do after the heves are dry, how to fil the gap and how to put the door without further damaging the shelf.