I have no idea about your place, but i found a dog fence very helpful. You can adjust them to different witdh, they are pretty inexpensive and you can remove them later when you move out. But i would also ask you landlord for a permanent installation because he must be concerned about your security too....Good Luck for You

Usually when you get side panels you automatically have space on the sides. If you have a full depth cabinet on the top, you automatically have space at the top and in most cases you will have leave at least 1 inch of extra room for the back of the refrigerator, so there is always air circulation since everything is enclosed. In the 70's they use to make a small recessed space behind like Fred said, today you don't have to do that, most Ref have flat backs, recessed wiring, not to mention the supply for ice-maker also comes in a flush mounting kits for the wall... so pretty much everything is recessed and only space you need is for air circulation and 1" is more then enough. In addition, if you make recessed area now and you push ref to far you will never get your doors open so doing all that is a waste of time, in addition most manufacturers starting to make 30" side panels.

there is many types of support to be used for counter top for long lasting work... as ... 1) brick wall which takes 2" , 4" or 6" thickness space which is not good for below space as we will waste space for storage under counter... this is used where heavy material is used on top of counter for cutting any food items... 2) marble support... which will take 35mm thk space double support... 3) furniture base if the kitchen working person is using the sink properly for washing purpose and the gaps between the sink and counter top has to be sealed properly for leakage free to avoid any damages for below storage, as i will not prefer this in other area... this can be used only in foreign countries...

1.Remove Door and Trim If you're adjusting an existing door frame in your house, first, you will have to remove the door itself and all of the trim surrounding the frame. The door is simple enough; just pull the hinge pins out of place, tapping them from beneath with a screwdriver and mallet if necessary. For the trim, wedge a flat pry bar underneath the edge on one end of a section, and gently pull the casing away from the wall. Do the same thing for all of the pieces around the door frame and carefully set them aside to reuse later. 2.Square the Opening Off It is difficult to ensure that a door will be level and square if the rough opening is not (the rough opening is the bare bones structure before any work is done to begin a door install). So, before you begin, use a carpenter’s square to check the upper corners. This will save you time and effort later on. Remember, the more accurate your measurements, the more level your door will be. 3.Shim Door Frame Placing a pre-hung door in the rough opening will give you an idea of how it will ultimately fit. This type comes complete with a pre-made frame surrounding it, so all you need to do is carefully slide it into place and shim wherever you need around the frame to level it in the opening. Remember that wooden shims can simply be made of wedges or blocks of wood. Place a level against the door frame in your existing installation to see where you need adjustments. Then, like before, place wooden shims until it sits as it's supposed to. To keep the shims in place, nail them to the hinge. Make sure you trim any excess pieces with a saw so they sit flush with the wall. 4.Get a Level Sill Next, adjust the door sill with a flat bar or wedge until it too is level. Place the wedge or bar under the latching side of the door frame and have your help hold your door so you can check to make sure whether the top of the frame, or lintel, will need more adjustment. 5.Double Check It is important in every project to double check your work. Take the time to measure the gap between the door frame and the original rough opening. Use and nail in more wedges where necessary. If you have the extra set of hands to spare, have someone re-measure if you feel it could be adjusted differently. 6.Secure Door Frame in Opening Place your blocks of wood and/or shims into the open space over the lintel, and begin attaching the door frame to the original rough opening. Again, double check each corner to be square, before completely securing it into place. Note: Do not worry about the finishing touches just yet. You can add framing to the door after applying the paneling or drywall. Also, head and side casings will finish off a new installation nicely, covering all your small shim adjustments. Thanks & Regards, Cathrinfrancis URBELITE Bangalore