I would consider a custom fitted glass top to protect the wood long term if you don't want to stain and seal it further. With the glass you can still enjoy the wood, without worrying about it being damaged, spillages, eraser, pen marks etc. With glass will be easy to wipe down and will always look new.

Not an expert in this arena, but maybe a varnish? if you go with the glass, you are going to have the 'glossy' look anyway. A varnish may be the protective coat it needs. Glass will definitely ensure that the wood stays in top form though!

I guess these are my two best options. I have other wooden tables and those have some sort of varnish on them which serve us well. Thank you both for your suggestions.

Does anyone know how to touch up the existing marks?

You will have to sand it back and re oil. Did the cabinet maker guarantee the top? He may do it for you.

Hey Again Belinda, your cabinet maker made the recommendation of the oil despite your hesitation. He has a responsibility to fix it and use a product that won't fail. Give him a call and let him know, more than likely he will do it at no charge. At the end of the day trades run off reputation and if he has an online presence, google etc it would be in his best interests to make sure the job is done properly in fear of a bad review.

He should of asked what the application for the Top was going to be for then used a Finish to suit, We always use Varnish if it is going to be a well used surface, things like French Polish and Danish oil require a lot of care when using like place mats and coasters as any small amount of heat can cause Damage even from a Coffee Cup being put on the table without a Coaster. If you did notify him of its attended purpose and he still recommended that finish then he is fully responsible.

Find out what oil has been used, by name, not style(post the answer), as the make up of them varies. Oil though is definitely the correct sealer, it just needs to be the correct one, applied properly and allowed enough time to cure. Varnishes and coatings should never be used on timber, I could go on for hours about why, with too many years of photo evidence to back it up. If it is a proper oil this will be a really easy fix so don't worry. Oil can be repaired varnish can't ...

Thanks for your reply John Henson. The oil used is called Kitchen Timber Oil by Feast Watson: FeastWatson Kitchen Timber Oil. (Turns out "Danish Oil" appears to be totally inaccurate). My cabinet maker reckons I can just touch up the marks myself with a bit more oil. Thoughts? I haven't had time to have a try yet. But I do like the sound of that!

Hi Belinda, feast Watson is a dulux product and many of their oils are a high percentage of kerosene( check their own msds)Let me do some research before you try anything. Danish oil is a high percentage of Tung oil and takes a long time to cure but is a very resistant sealer. Livos is a linseed oil and has drying esters in it for a quicker cure and is 100% natural. My dog has just scratched my floor Really badly and I'll do a Reno on (Livos Kunos),it this weekend to show you how easy it is. These oils may go over the feast Watson with not too much prep. I'll get back to you.

Don't use rubber feet it causes a reaction with the surface you have to sand it and oil again. It happened to us with a entertainment unit. I suggest using felt. Good luck!

Varnish will do the same thing!

Feast Watson kitchen oil is 30-60 % petroleum naphtha. This maybe the reactionary problem.
Ok time to fix.
Sanding back starting with 120 grit and go through the grades...180, 240,320. Sand with the grain until you feel that all the blemishes are removed. Sounds daunting but the first strike with the sand paper is psychologically the most difficult. I'd stick to the Tung oil base and use Organoil danish oil. Brush on rub off with a clean rag. Let dry, sand back lightly, this time with 400grit and reapply oil and rub off. Let it cure for a couple of days and you should be good to go.
Livos Kunos oil is also an option and would only take a 120 grit sand, apply, rub off. Let that dry for a day sand with 320 and reapply and rub off. The only problem is it is an expensive oil.

Thanks everyone and in particular- John Henson - for your advice and recommendations. I am not sure if we will tackle the job of sanding and re-oiling right now but I am grateful for your help.

Love the rich redness of the wood, John.