I would use whichever Asian piece fits the tv as a tv console. Then purchas or have custom built...two large column bookcases one on each side of the credenza...to reach to the soffit. Install glass shelves in the bookcases. Get rid of the cream sofa...I can't tell what is opposite it, but, it is white. It looks like you have too much large furniture all fighting to have their style be "the winner" and nothing meshes. Use the lower asian cabinet under the window...then a cluster of the traditional style chairs grouped for conversation. 2 and 2 facing each other perpendicular to the window. The small tables could be between the chairs. They could be very similar to the armchair that is in the picture, not matching...but the wood frames all the same color and the upholstery the same. Then repeat the upholstery in decorative pillows on the sofa. Using the armchairs in the traditional area, gives you lots of flexibility as you can easily move them over facing the sofa when you wish to create a larger conversational grouping, or facing the tv when there is something special you want to watch. Get rid of the curio cabinet and the round glass table as they are too much in contrast with the leather sofa. Paint the smaller tables in a bright color to add a pop of color...repeating the color in pillows on the sofa. (I see an orangey colored throw on the sofa...that would be a nice accent color) You could add lights in the bookcase columns for interest. Then, look for an unusual lamp or chandelier to hang in the corner behind the curve of the sofa. I would hang floor to ceiling draperies with the large grommets in the top to repeat the medalian on the asian pieces. Add a wide band of the accent color to the bottom of the draperies. Place 2 unique wall sconces on each side of the wall unit...something that draws the 2 styles together, maybe with hints of the accent color. A large piece of artwork, which includesvthe accent color, to be hung over the sofa. It would be fun to have a frame in an ornate traditional style, but painted to match the asian pieces. Thanks for the opportunity it was fun!

I think a comfortable distance between the island and the counter is around 42". It seems that you have only 30" between your cook top and the counter. I might be a little too tight. The wall between the entrance and the kitchen could be 4' long instead of 6', you would then be able to move the island a foot which would give you more room between the cook top and the island. Could you switch the location of the toilet and vanity in your dad's bathroom so your enter facing a vanity instead of a toilet which is a lot nicer.

Unfortunately, I do not have a photo for you and have been unsuccessful in downloading my sketch. I think I can explain better what I meant. Your window behind the bed cannot be centered behind the bed and presently looks a little awkward. To remedy this, I suggested framing it with wood trim and creating another "fake" window alongside of it also using wood trim to frame it. Both the fake and the real window would get two rows of louvered shutters, a top row and a bottom row. Obviously, the lovers on the fake window would remain permanently closed. They are there only to give the illusion of another window. The shutters on the bottom half of the real window would remain closed, but the louvers would open to allow light and air. The top shutter could open to access opening and closing the window but most of the time, just have the louvers open for light and air. You will have created a bank of window that your bed could be centered under and I think it would look nice. I would use a headboard with wood or metal spindles that allow the light and air from the real window to pass through, yet give you something to prop pillows against. I must say though, if you did not want to do this, I love the recently added photo by Anne dee with white drapes, gray walls and some framed pictures that really help balance the awkward window. That was a beautiful room and looks a lot easier to accomplish than my idea. From your photos, I am not quite sure you have enough wall space to do it exactly like that, but I am sure you could experiment with the concept and come up with something lovely based on that idea.

Hi, I am from Assam, Guwahati. Yes it is warm humid place with lot of rains (like kerala). The bookcase is gradually drying. Fortunately last few days were very sunny and airy and my room has two big windows. Few mor details of my bookcase. It is 8 feet wide, 6 feet tall and 11 inch deep. It was attached with wall with 6 wall screw and has four pair of legs.I ask the carpenter to divide the bookcase into 3 part (32 inch each) and two door system for each part. Every part has 6 shelve from top to botom. There is no plywood or wood in back. I made it that way because the bookcase is attached in my room's inner wall I understand that the bookcase may have very little gap in between wall and wooden planks and i am ready for it. But I have no idea that beacuse of faulty mesurement, it became 1 inch gap between wall and sheve in the upper side. In lower side it is very minimum gap. I stop the carpenters to put the glass door. But now I see that they also make fault in making the doors. The doors are heavier that the shelf. The wooden planks are 1 inch thick while the door are 1.1/2 inch thick. I actually visit few hardwere shops here, but most have no ideas what to do and few says to apply wall putty to fill the gap. But my back wall is coloured (old wall, that why) and wall putty will not set on old wall and timber. I cannot remove it now from the wall otherwise the wall may destroyed. I really need a step by step guide now that what to do after the heves are dry, how to fil the gap and how to put the door without further damaging the shelf.